so stoked to take the kids surfing today! i just love teaching them how to enjoy surfing and enjoy the life. here is 13 year old Ray on one of many waves this morning.

and Lisa had so many good ones too! just so calm and so confident.

when i’m in the water, i always try to capture the magical moment. a moment like this when Lisa is sharing a wave with her Dad in the back.

and i had to get one of Kitahama-san and Ray on the same wave too. it takes a lot of thinking, timing, and placement to capture something like this. and when you see the results, it’s all worth it.

this surf session will form the bond of this family even stronger. it’s just what nature does. great job guys!

the beautiful Kitahama-san family. during lunch, i asked the kids what their dreams were. both of them said “i want to become a doctor just like my dad.” omg, that was so cool to hear! i’m sure Kitahama-san is a great role model for his kids.

after we dropped Mama and the kids off at the hotel, we went for round 2! the waves bigger and cleaner. super off shore winds so i seen some amazing barrels at rock piles.

after each wave, Kitahama-san was getting better and better. he must have caught 30 sets this afternoon. we surfed for 4 hours and surfed till our arms said no. i had a great time today and hope everybody keeps on surfing! thanks guys!

It’s HERE! This afternoon head high and perfect off shore! Surfed 6 hours today!

every time i go into the ocean, i tell the kids to watch me just a few times before they even start to dive. watch the way i go down, watch the way i approach fish, and watch the way i spear it. those images will get etched into their little minds and one day, they will doing the same thing. but until then, it will take practice. and the best way to learn is by going, going, and going.

i told this kid that he will be taking home dinner someday soon. and i know it will happen because this kid never gives up. maybe someday he’ll be spearing huge tuna. i wouldn’t doubt it.

even the girls are going deeper. just loving the ocean and feeling so free. i told them that if i ever catch them playing that new pokeman game, i will be super pissed!

gosh, i miss Asayama-san already! it was pretty sad dropping him off at the airport. but yes, he will be back again and i’m looking forward to that.

check out his steak meal! eating like a teenager. haha.

i ate the local ham soup. it was so good!

how amazing is this cloud??? looks like a face!!! see the nose? see the hair? see the mouth? the more i look at it, the more i get chicken skin.

i met Yumei-chan about 10 years ago. from the first day, she inspired me a lot. and i can tell you that i’m not the only person she’s inspired. awesome article Yumei-chan! i’m so proud of you.