Killer Surfer from the Side?

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ok, hang on to your hats, surfboards, and houses! tropical darby is coming at us head on. expected to hit oahu tomorrow night so strong winds, heavy rain, and very dangerous conditions. i better get down and secure Mayuki!
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surfed this morning with Kawato-san. super cool surfer experiencing hawaii for the first time. here is his first hawaiian wave! i wonder how it must feel to finally catch your first wave in hawaii? must be good yeah?
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then i started getting brave with my camera trying to get a good close up shot of Kawato-san. check out this beautiful photo! BUT, as i was shooting this, i felt a surfboard go over my head!!!!
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some idiot came flying down the line and almost killed me! i was so pissed! i swear you shouldn’t be surfing if you can’t control your own surfboard! but after i yelled at the guy, i thought to myself “if he didn’t fall over me, he would have killed Kawato-san!” so i guess that was good.
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we were lucky to be alive. haha. awesome first surf session in hawaii Kawato-san! see you tomorrow!
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then went surfing with Oshima-san in the afternoon. so stoked to see him back here in hawaii! such a cool guy that loves to surf. body in great shape, riding good waves, and getting better and better each wave.
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tried to say far away from Oshima-san because i was still traumatized from almost getting killed in the morning. haha.
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awesome job surfing today Oshima-san. see you tomorrow and everyday this week! by the time you leave, you will be ripping even harder.

Enjoy Your Ride!

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wow! the fried papio was excellent! super fresh and super delicious.
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seen this girl with the longest hair in the world walking across the street. it wasn’t only long, it was so beautiful! she must spend some time taking care of all that hair.
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snapped this photo yesterday while surfing Tropical Storm Darby! so beautiful!
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when i was in high school, all my brother and i did was fix volkswagon bugs. day in and day out. in the garage getting all greasy from head to toe. and it was always our dream to own a dune buggy but none of us could afford one. then we started talking about it last week and it took a day to track the perfect one down. my brother and i decided to buy this and enjoy our adult life living in our teenager dreams.
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this buggy has everything i could have dreamt of. the best rims, motor, and transmission. it’s made for full racing and goes super fast. all it needs is a new paint job so that’s the next step. then once it’s painted all black, it will be the exact dream car we could dreamt of.
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even my nephew Seth is stoked about it. haha. i’ve been driving it around and love the feeling. i don’t care what anybody thinks. as long as we are happy, that’s all that matters. whoop!

July 22, 2016 Hawaii Surf Report

Wow! Sharks can jump!
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana chest high and good!
Diamond Head head high and windy.
Sandy Beach 3-5’ and windy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm day.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!