after many sessions on teaching Asayama-san on how to be calm surfing big waves, yesterday finally paid off. i was laughing so hard watching him dive under some barreling waves.

and perfectly coming up. he made it look way to easy.

and also watching Asayama-san riding some big glassy waves all by himself. watching the confidence going up and up. and watching the body getting bigger and stronger.

when i get 67 years old, i hope to have a body like his. a true inspiration for so many people. it’s never too late to start surfing and turn your life around.

drove through kewalos and seen a lucky charter boat come in. nice marlin!

then went to hang out at kewalos. i gave Asayama-san the binoculars and told him to watch and learn. the islands best surfers gather here in the evenings so lots of experience right in front.

then hung out with my sister, friends, nephews, and niece. Josh, Kelia, and Seth Moniz. all world champions.

watching and learning is very important. then you can go apply it in your next surf session. i’m pretty sure Asayama-san will be surfing much better this afternoon.
leaving the beach, Asayama-san told me that so many of his dreams came true. meeting Kelia was one, but hanging out at the beach local style was another. so much aloha in the air. an amazing evening.

The War Continues. So sad.
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and windy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Rainy morning becoming sunny and very warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

had an awesome time surfing with Kenta-san this morning. only been surfing for a short time but hooked on the shortboard. today he caught the most waves, longest waves, and biggest waves of his life. super stoked for him!

the youngest doctor i know. started at age 24 and has been helping patients for the past 7 years.

Kenta-san asked me if i was scared of big waves. i said no. then he asked me what i’m scared of. i told him “i’m scared of hospitals, so that means doctors too” haha.

then had lunch with this wonderful family. having a hawaiian wedding next week. so happy for their new beginning with baby Souma!

then afternoon surf with Asayama-san. after that, i took him to see Kelia. for the past year, he told me it was his biggest dream to meet the world champ. making peoples dreams come true is a dream come true for me too. and this time, the timing couldn’t have been any better.

then we hung out at kewalos for 2 hours talking story, watching surfing, and hanging out with the kewalos boys! here is my big family! love um all.