going to Cuba is like going back 50 years in America. going to Molokai is like going back 100 years in Hawaii. just the simplest of living off the land and sea. going there for the first time made me realize how important our natural resources are.

and getting taught how to live off the land by true 100% hawaiians is something you could never learn in school.

and watching these guys dive first hand blew me away. i remember just sitting back, watching, and learning on this trip. we would catch fish, take it back, clean it right as we got in, and share it with everyone. it was the Molokai way.

here is Dino cutting up the filets. nothing here goes to waste. what ever you catch, you eat. simple.

it’s amazing how close Molokai is, but yet so far from Oahu when it comes to pure hawaiian culture. it’s the simple lifestyle. live off the island, and take care of your family.
so 1 year ago, some free divers from Oahu take their boat over to Molokai, they rape the ocean, meaning spearing anything and everything to fill up their coolers to bring back to oahu to sell to chinese restaurants. some of the Molokai locals got pissed off, went to their boat, threw their spearguns into the ocean, and told them never to come back. the Oahu guys came back to oahu and called the police. here is what i think because when it comes to things like this, i speak my mind. Molokai is different. the people protect their land and resources. they take what they need for dinner and that’s it. their ocean is like their refrigerator. so going there from another island and raping their ocean is like stealing from them. i totally respect their ways, i totally respect their culture. in my eyes, the free divers from Oahu that went there were wrong. they should show more respect for the hawaiians living on that beautiful island. all this i learned by the hawaiians on Molokai and i wish everybody would respect their ways.
so i just have one more thing to say:
Keep Molokai Molokai!
and maybe another thing too:
Keep Cuba Cuba!

North Shore season ON!
Good morning 6am.
North shore small today. Waist high.
South swell continues. Shoulder high at Ala Moana and clean.
Overhead at Diamond Head and windy.
East side high surf advisory.
East winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows all day.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

woke up this morning to the most amazing rainbow! well, actually woke up at 4am to the most tiring jet lag. just can’t seem to get a good night sleep. when i travel to asia side, i’m totally fine. but when i travel to central america side, i’m totally not fine. i wonder why that is?

then drove to bowls and seen the same amazing rainbow. it was following me the whole way. ended up getting some super nice barrels. so stoked to be surfing epic waves! then jumped on Mayuki this afternoon and surfed into the sunset. seen yet another huge rainbow and surfed with my good friends till dark.

kind of creepy driving in the ocean when it’s so dark like tonight. you have to pay attention because one mistake could mean disaster. and nobody wants disaster.

what is travel? travel is experiencing the different cultures in different countries. went to visit a very sacred temple deep in indonesia. it was amazing!

what is travel? travel is experiencing the different foods in different countries. while on a boat trip in northern sumatra, we wanted to eat pork. so we went to a tiny village, bought their pig, killed it, cleaned it, and ate it. now we were waiting for the dingy to take us back to our boat so we could cook this little pig. and yes, it was amazing!