woke up this morning to the most amazing rainbow! well, actually woke up at 4am to the most tiring jet lag. just can’t seem to get a good night sleep. when i travel to asia side, i’m totally fine. but when i travel to central america side, i’m totally not fine. i wonder why that is?
then drove to bowls and seen the same amazing rainbow. it was following me the whole way. ended up getting some super nice barrels. so stoked to be surfing epic waves! then jumped on Mayuki this afternoon and surfed into the sunset. seen yet another huge rainbow and surfed with my good friends till dark.
kind of creepy driving in the ocean when it’s so dark like tonight. you have to pay attention because one mistake could mean disaster. and nobody wants disaster.
what is travel? travel is experiencing the different cultures in different countries. went to visit a very sacred temple deep in indonesia. it was amazing!
what is travel? travel is experiencing the different foods in different countries. while on a boat trip in northern sumatra, we wanted to eat pork. so we went to a tiny village, bought their pig, killed it, cleaned it, and ate it. now we were waiting for the dingy to take us back to our boat so we could cook this little pig. and yes, it was amazing!
