wow, had super good sessions yesterday. the south swell that seems to be lasting forever just producing the best waves ever. been sneaking away and scoring epic private sessions all summer long. just Aoi and I out yesterday evening with our private photographer capturing every single moment. i don’t think i’ll ever go on an Indonesia boat trip ever again. i feel great right here at home!

in order to become a better surfer, you must experience different waves. you have to be ready to jump into any surf spot around the world and be able to preform. i was very fortunate to travel the word searching for new spots. surfed spots in countries that haven’t been surfed before, so i’m pretty comfortable surfing anywhere. now, i want to teach the next generation what i learned. so instead of paddling out with Aoi, i told him to study the wave, the reef, the wind, and the lineup. he jumped in and had the spot all to himself. i was surprised how fast he figured out this wave because this spot is pretty tricky.

every wave has to be approached and surfed differently. my advise is always “for the first wave, ride it softly, flow with it, and don’t fight it. just feel it. then the next wave, rip it up!”

progression every week. good job Aoi!

another amazing sunset. the ultimate way to end a perfect surfing day.

Nixon has some cool watches. i really like the style and functions. BUT, just beware that owning a Nixon means replacing the battery very often. my battery dies every 4-5 months. and to change it, you’re supposed to send it back to Nixon. it takes about $30 and weeks. but i just change it myself. and now, i change my friends batteries too.

i like taking things apart and putting it back together. keeps me focused.

now i have to buy a new battery, replace it, and it’s good to go. so remember before you buy a Nixon, don’t be surprised if your battery dies in a few months. if you want long lasting battery life, get a Casio G-shock. my friend gave me one 10 years ago and it’s still working perfectly.

this was yesterday. today is much bigger. the endless summer continues. pure stoke!

Yesterday evening sunset. Photo by Me.
Good morning 5:45am.
HIGH SURF ADVISORY FOR SOUTH SHORES!!!
Ala Moana solid ovehead and good!!!
Diamond Head 4′ and bumpy.
North shore 2-4′ and little bumpy.
Trade winds at 15-25mph.
Clouds, showers, sun, and lots of rainbows!
Surf all day!
See you in the barrel!

yes, i caught the golden sunset today! did you?

OMG! my favorite dessert spot Bubbies is closing!!!! super shock! after 30 years of eating here, it will be gone forever. so sad i can’t eat mochi ice cream here anymore.

the surfer that got attacked lost his leg and finger, but he’s determined to get back in the water as soon as possible. amazing courage.

i took my little friend surfing again this morning. omg, we had such a great time! i could hear him yelling and screaming while riding the wave all the way in. it was the cutest thing ever.

i was starving for lunch so ate a hawaiian plate from Yama’s. oh so good!

Aoi surfs the ala moana area every single day since he started surfing. today, i wanted to teach him something different so i took him out for his first ever surf boat trip. we found a spot with nobody around. i told him to study the spot from the boat, then paddle out and surf it. this kid did a great job! it’s experiences like this that take your surfing level up a big notch.

omg! the sunset was freaking amazing today!

right after we get off Mayuki, Aoi said to me “wow, i gotta get a boat too!” haha. i think another surfer just got hooked! a little tip to all you kids that want to get a boat. it takes years and years of experience to operate a boat. yes, surfing helps a lot. wave knowledge and ocean knowledge is very important. and another thing that owning and maintaining a boat costs a lot of money, time, and dedication. 10x more maintenance than having a girlfriend. haha!