finally i got a chance to watch Maki-san prepare her famous steamed fish dish! she and the girls put so much work and effort into preparing this amazing meal.

hours and hours of preparation. this is how it looked before she stuck it into the oven. and when it came out, we were way to hungry to take a photo. everybody enjoyed it!

hanging out with the boys. just talking story, laughing, and having a few beers over the custom surfboard table. this is the hawaiian style surf living. surfboards, beers, and friends. that’s all we need to be happy!

still tripping out professional surfing photographer Jeff “Mana” Walthall is no longer with us. one of the coolest guys you will ever meet. brought so many amazing surfing images to the world.

Mana died 2 days ago surfing makaha. this was his last wave of his life. right after this ride, he kicked out and had a heart attack. for surfers like us, this is the way we want to live and die. been talking about this with my surfer friends and we all agree that this is the most awesome way to exit the world. there wouldn’t be any better way. RIP Mana! your memories and photos will be with us forever.

Good Balance?
Good morning 6am.
South shore swell continues.
Head high and PERFECT at Ala Moana. Barreling!
Diamond Head overhead and super good.
Light off shore winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Surfing all day.
See you in the water!

leaving my house this morning looking at the most beautiful rainbow.

then looking at the most amazing sunrise.

then driving out to the ocean looking at the same beautiful rainbow. waves were perfect again!

then came home and prepared for the nights party. i decided to make homemade poke.

came out pretty good. well, i hope it did.

Tomoka Fukuda is living her dreams. she just got sponsored by Suunto and is featured on their website as an athlete/model. i still remember my first conversation with her in okinawa many years ago. she wanted to become one of the best women free divers in the world and also dreamed of being sponsored by Suunto. both dreams came true! i’m so proud of this girl!
here is part of her interview:
“Before, I wanted everything, now I don’t need anything,” Tomoka says. “I am fulfilled solely by ocean happiness and do not have material desires.
“I just want to dive in the ocean. The ocean is my world.”