Another beautiful day!

since they are non-stop building luxury condos in town, they are kicking out the homeless. 20 years ago, i would see one or two in this area. now, there are hundreds. families, kids, pets, and even grandparents. pretty sad as they have no place to go.

went to ala moana shopping center and seen a huge poster of Seth Moniz! he’s the new poster boy for the HIC Sunset Pro coming up later this month. so stoked for this kid!

if i was a magician, i would wave my magic wand and have me wake up tomorrow in japan. then i can chase these typhoons. but no, i’m not a magician so i’ll just stay in hawaii and surf these epic south swells. oh well. i guess i’m not missing anything.

i picked up Yumi-chan and the first thing she asked was “do you have a wetsuit?” i said “what?” she said “but it’s raining and cold.” i said “what?” see, Yumi-chan lives in Kailua. that side of the island always rains and is always onshore. i told her, “hey, you’re on my side of the island now, it’s always sunny, warm, and offshore here.” haha.

no need wetsuit right? it’s always paradise in honolulu.

and yes, this girl was scared of a surfboard, and scared of the ocean. now, she feels like home. it’s amazing what confidence can do to a person. she caught some head high sets!

i know a place right in honolulu where the turtles come to clean themselves. they just float around in a school of fish and let the fish eat all the algae off their shell. these turtles are very curious. they will just swim right up to you and look you right in the eye. i would love to ride one like Urashima Taro, but that will get you arrested here in hawaii. bummer.

Nice timing! Haha
Good morning 6am.
South shore swell continues.
Chest high at Ala Moana. Super clean.
Head high at Diamond Head. Super clean.
Light off shore winds so perfect conditions.
Cloudy and rainy morning becoming sunny.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!