super stoked to get the 2nd to the last seat on a flight last night. didn’t really care if i got on or not but once the plane took off, i was happy to be heading home. i recline my seat, close my eyes, and was sleeping in 2 seconds.

i wake up looking out the window and see swells. south swell? nice small and very clean one!

i get home, drink my kombucha, grab my surfboard, and head out to the ocean. i was super stoked and so excited to surf again! so happy!

enjoying every single ride. the waves were super nice and perfect! talked story to friends, laughed, and enjoyed every moment today.

i took along my surf partner. she got some of the best waves of the day! perfect long rights! same thing tomorrow! can’t wait!

then drove over to the other side of the island to Kalaheo High School to watch some high school volleyball tonight. ACE! awesome game girls!
good night!

Amazing!

want to thank Kanae-san and Saito-san for sending some photos. most i remember, but some i already forgot. haha.

Eri-chan, Kimura-san, Kanae-san, and Yuki-chan. my beautiful friends!

i still can’t wait to see all the photos Taisuke-san took. here is a sneak peak.

super stoked to see my longtime friend Ganti there too. i met Ganti 23 years ago on an Indo boat trip. since then, he’s given me hundreds of waves at padang padang, thousands of waves all around bali, introduced me to all the bali boys, and also got me out of a lot of trouble in bali. haha. and probably the millionth time i shook Tokura-san’s hand thanking him for everything he’s done for me.

the full paparazzi! there were cameras everywhere!

i used to surf the JPSA with Ushikoshi and Fukuchi. two super good champion surfers that represented japan surfing in a very good way.

like i said, i had a glass and 2 beers all night long. some people call it japanese style. i walked around toasting to all of my friends. so imagine toasting 300 times @ 4 rounds? buy 9pm, i didn’t remember a thing.

Dove is not just japan history, Dove is international history. guys like Buttons Kaluhiokalani, Tony Moniz, and Dane Kealoha rode for Dove. some solid hawaiian roots.

i take it back. the clock in the back says 8:45pm. by 8:45, i don’t remember a thing because i don’t remember taking this photo at all.

Matchi, Kame-kun, and Satoshi. we were all Dove for most of our lives. pro surfers all surfing during the biggest surfing boom in the history of japan surfing. yeah, the 90’s were ours!

Furuki-san is an amazing artist. not only amazing, but very kind. he’s been making cool illustrations of all the Dove boys for many years. super stoked to see him at the party!

another thing i forgot. Furuki-san gave me a present during the party. i couldn’t carry it because of the beers in my hand. luckily, Yuki-chan carried it for me. such a sweet girl! i asked Eri-chan earlier and she told me “no way man!”

then the next morning it was right at my front door of my room. thank you so much Yuki-chan for not losing my precious present.

yes, a R/C Kikaider! thank you Furuki-san for the cool gift and all the amazing illustrations.

sipping sake with 40 years of history. i’ll keep this for the rest of my life.

last, want to thank my friends for celebrating my birthday with me. i can’t believe i’m past half my life span and i’m enjoying life the most. thank you again!