omg, the heavy rain again last night spilled out into the ocean!!! i woke up this morning and seen chocolate ala moana bowls! very dirty water and very dangerous. there was no way i was going in there!

so instead, we go somewhere else. clean water and clean barrels. my friend and i ended up surfing for 2.5 hours and had the inside all to ourselves. we were very lucky that nobody knew. this spot is normally packed!!

felt so good shortboading! just so free and so wild!

and when you push the tail, the board flies! still can’t believe we got such good waves all to ourselves. pretty rare when the south shore is pumping like this!!!

then came home and put a few kumu’s in the steamer. omg, i forgot how good this prized fish tastes! fresh and delicious!

ok, Porsche is introducing their new electric car. so is Volvo. now Telsa has some very stiff competition. competition means better cars for less money. finally.

i drove a friends 911 turbo a few years ago and it was so loud and furious. people could hear me coming down the roads. these new electric Porsche’s will be silent and furious. you won’t hear it so look both ways twice before you cross the street.

40 years ago, this car would be from some kind of science fiction space movie. today, it’s the real thing. can you imagine what the cars 40 years later will look like? i’ll bet anyone that we will be flying to work. wanna bet?
well, south swell continues. super good waves and super dirty water. choose wisely and surf safely. goodnight.

We were here!!!

Makoto-san is a very young and energetic girl. it was her first time surfing and i couldn’t believe how much energy she had. the waves were pretty big so getting back out was pretty hard. we ended up surfing for over 2 hours until her arms couldn’t paddle anymore. and she still wanted more.

very good balance and very strong. that’s the perfect combination for a very good surfer.

and the beautiful diamond head shot! great job Makoto-san! keep on smiling!

Take-san is a very funny guy. keeps me laughing and laughing. he did great!

this photo is pretty cool. i love the shorts. haha. great job Take-san! keep on laughing!

then i got out the short board in the afternoon and had a great time with these guys!

Tetsu-san charging the big ones! late take off!

he arrived off the airplane from japan at 12pm, came straight to waikiki, we picked him up, and went to the beach. catching a big wave like this will fix anyones jet lag. haha. great job Tetsu-san! keep on charging!

Kaneko-san’s been coming for the past 6 years. this year, the waves were the biggest. he was super stoked!

i followed him on a couple of waves and was very impressed in him attacking the lip. this is how you attack the lip! awesome off the lip with beautiful diamond head in the back. great job Kaneko-san. keep on ripping!
i’m sure you all slept good last night! i surely did too! see you boys and girl again!