@Haleiwa

i was out surfing the other day with a super good surfer. just following behind watching the action unfold. as soon as i seen him get low and bend his knees, i knew he was preparing for something big!

then i see him go off the top. knees still bent the way it’s supposed to. so i knew he was going to make it.

then bam!!! smack the lip and perfect landing. so stoked to see progressive surfing right in front of my eyes!

last year, i read the book “The Old Man and the Sea” by Ernest Hemingway. it was an epic story of a Cuban fisherman’s tale. that very book inspired me to go to Cuba to see what the American Nobel Prize winner experienced living and writing in Cuba. so as i sit on the caribbean on an empty beach, i see an old Cuban fisherman walk right on by. i snap this photo and thought to myself, “wow, the old man and the sea!”

and of course i will never sit back and let the moment pass by. i’m a fisherman and every fisherman has a story. so i get up and start talking to this fisherman. he spoke spanish, i spoke english. two different languages but understood each other clearly.

he told me he was catching his daily dinner. just enough for his family waiting at home.

and he would use these ugly looking worms as bait. different country, different style. i just love watching ocean culture at its deepest.

he casts his pole again. i sit back down and enjoy the most beautiful caribbean day dreaming about writing a book someday.
“Why do old men wake so early? Is it to have one longer day?”
― Ernest Hemingway, The Old Man and the Sea

Want a knife?
Good morning 6am.
North shore 2-4′ and coming down.
Shoulder high at Haleiwa and contest ON @ 8am!
South shore small. Waist high at Ala Moana.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny, showers, and rainbows.
Going to watch contest!
Have a wonderful day!
http://www.worldsurfleague.com/events/2015/mqs/1313/hawaiian-pro/live