got friends from japan sending me the forecast for next weeks typhoon. some say good, most say so so. like always, everyday is a different day. i go on my friends expert knowledge and instinct. we shall know much better come monday. as for now, it’s anybody’s guess. keep me posted boys!

omg, had a super heavy session with Tou-san this morning. a firefighter from chigasaki and today was the test of her life. the biggest waves she’s ever surfed and the most biggest waves pushing us to our limits. the waves where super big and super strong! there were only a few that made it out past the breakers and Tou-san was one of them. a super tough girl with lots of energy and will. good job girl!

once you duck dove under 40 or more waves, you would make it to the outside if you have the energy left. and once you get out there, you can wait your turn to ride mountains. we were catching waves past the red buoy today so that’s the 5′ plus or 10′ faces indicator.

this kid paddled up to me and said “do you know Kobayashi-san from Selection Surf Shop?” i said “yeah, i know Kobayashi-san from Nagoya!” turns out, Kobayashi-san sponsors this kid. good kid and good surfer.

there was a Kalani High School volleyball fundraiser car wash at kahala mall today. Seth Moniz pulled up to get his truck washed and all the girls were turning red and giggling. trying to get a photo of him and trying to have a chat. see, Seth is the most famous kid right now in hawaii. i’m sure his truck was washed pretty dam good. pretty funny.

then it was my turn. nobody knows me so i felt lonely. haha. just joking. happy to see my nephew Seth taking the time out of his busy day to support local athletics here in hawaii.

this past trip to tohoku was magical. so magical that when i came back to hawaii, i had tears of joy rolling down my face thinking about all the great things happening. if you compared my thoughts four years ago to today, it will be the total opposite. i’m so joyful, i’m so happy, and i’m so stoked for each and every one of our tohoku friends. we all come from all walks of life, but after it’s all said and done, We Are All One! photo at the wonderful Ryoko-san family house.

someday when i get old, i’m going to write a book of my personal experiences with japan and the wonderful people i’ve met. i’ve watched babies becoming kids. i’ve watched kids becoming adults. i’ve experienced this for the past 25 years of my life making it more than half my lifetime. people ask me if i have family in japan. i have more than family in japan, i have families in japan. once again, i’m a new uncle to this cute little baby named Taito-kun. now i get to watch him grow and i’m looking forward to each and every time i see him. he’ll definitely be a chapter in my new book of life. welcome to this beautiful world buddy!

9:55am @ Ala Moana.
Solid atama han or 5′ Hawaiian size.
Super clean conditions.
Super blue sky and light winds.
Super fun.
Super hard.
Super happy.
Super dream!

getting out to the lineup yesterday was pretty hard. some solid 4-5′ sets breaking on our heads but we managed to get out and wait for the sets.

Hashimoto-san is a very tuff surfer. very determined to get out each and every time. one huge freak set broke on our heads and even i had to throw my board and dive under. getting tougher and tougher wave by wave.

here i am on the side again yelling “LOOK FORWARD!!!”

was so stoked to see Hashimoto-san surfing 10x better than last year. i love to see improvements and it makes me so happy to see the pure stoke!

of course i had to get a few of my own. i left hawaii surfing epic waves, and now i’m back surfing epic waves. just loving the perfect timing of precious mother nature!

i was given a DVD a few days ago. i watched it last night and loved it! it’s about the samurai lifestyle. a lifestyle i always dream to live someday. most people say “no way, it’s not going to happen.” but i still believe it will someday.

i’m so fascinated by the way the samurai once lived. pretty much live and die by the sword. i would give anything to go back 100 years and live that kind of lifestyle.

and i would sit on my tatami everyday looking outside into my garden of bonsai plants. then i would have my yamato nadeshiko pamper me all day long. then when it’s time to fight with my sword, i’d be ready to die! opps, sorry. i just finished reading the samurai book by Musashi Miyamoto, and i just watched this movie. i better wake up and get back to the real life we live in now. haha.