another birthday boy in october. celebrating so many family birthdays this month. happy birthday Nate!

had a great time surfing this morning with Nakayama-san. super cool surf dude that caught some freaking big waves today! he was kind of tripping out on how big the waves were. it was huge!

then went to take care of business in the hot sun.

i was doing routine maintenance. i tell my friends that taking care of a boat is higher maintenance than taking care of your girlfriend. but the good thing is boats don’t talk back. haha.

then took Kim for an afternoon session. such a perfect beautiful day for everyone!!! omg, look how black i am!!!

then came home to take care of my yard. so good to see the flowers blooming. and still waiting on my sudachi plant to produce some fruit!

working in the yard watching the rainbow. i see this every single day!

then jumped on the Yamaha for a sunset ride around town.

rode through waikiki people and sunset watching. it was so beautiful!

they issued a high surf advisory today for the south shores of oahu. it’s the 3rd time this month? all us surfers are in total disbelief! but hey, we will take it. all the hawaiian guys who usually go to indonesia to chase perfect waves never left hawaii this summer. why go to indonesia when we have indonesia in our back yard? look at this freaking wave this evening!!! this is as perfect as it gets.

want to thank Naganuma-san for the warm jacket. perfect for my snowboarding trip this year to hokkaido!

and thank you Higeta-san for the japanese gift. i love anything japanese because i’m japanese!
waves continue. two more south swells coming after this one. one part of me wants to take a trip, but the other part is saying “are you crazy?” i’m crazy so as soon as something changes, i’m gone. good night.

Real or Fake?
Honmono ka Nisemono?
Photo by Yuko-chan. Ask her.
I think fake. Haha!

Toda-san and Takami-san just went back to japan and woke up to this!!!! omg! i’m so jealous!!!

Yumi-chan is another girl is taught how to surf from the beginning. i still remember the first time i took her out and she had a panic attack in knee high waves. just the water moving was too much for her. i kept telling her to relax, breathe, and enjoy. little by little, she kept getting more confident and it showed in her surfing. now, she has so much confidence and is getting better and better each wave. yesterday morning Yumi-chan caught so many good perfect waves.

and now that she can turn right or left, she’s enjoying the ride twice as much.

and i’m enjoying the ride too! haha. everyday i’m taking a little step by step to becoming a better surfer myself.

then we got so hungry so went to my favorite seafood black bean noodle shop. the best in hawaii!

Yumi-chan loved it too!

$8 and delicious. sorry i can’t tell you where this is. locals only. haha.

from a 11’0, to a 10’0, and now to a high performance 9’3. if you take surfing the right way with the right equipment, you will get better much faster. watching Yumi-chan surfing from the start to now makes me feel so happy. the greatest feeling watching someone next to you having the greatest feeling in the world.

then we drove to Kailua and omg, rain!!!!

the biggest ride. it still blows me away how much confidence this girl got just from surfing. riding overhead waves and not even scared. when she falls, she laughs. now surfing is fun, and now her life will be better. great job Yumi-chan! i’m super proud of your accomplishments!