if you think it’s too late to get hooked on surfing again, just ask Asayama-san. he’s hooked at his prime age of 66 and won’t give it up. neither would i.

the waves were pretty solid. had some head high sets but Asayama-san handled it very well. he couldn’t believe how long he could ride the waves for.

after every wave, i saw the biggest smile. one wave, one smile. that’s what surfing can do.

Onosei-san from Wedge Surf in Ibaraki teaches Asayama-san how to surf. it’s no wonder why he surfs so well and is totally hooked on surfing. wanted to say hello to the Wedge Surf team in ibaraki!

monk seal & surfer. that was an awesome day and timing Reid!
weird hurricane weather coming this week. big surf too. be safe and enjoy the ride!

Tiger 2 shots back. Go-Tiger!
Good morning 5:45am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and perfect.
No wind so super glassy and clean morning conditions.
Clouds, sun, showers, and weird weather again. Storm still coming.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

had an awesome day with Asayama-san! i can’t believe he’s 66 years old and super stoked on surfing! today the waves were super perfect so he caught some really good ones. also caught the longest waves of his surfing life! he kept on paddling back out saying “this is my dream!”

then we went to Your Kitchen to eat a loco moco and the pork bowl. the best on the island.

it’s been 40 years since Asayama-san last came to hawaii. so many things have changed since, including this tree growing and growing.

huge!

after a good surf, good lunch, and good talk, we took a nap under the tree. so peaceful and so relaxing.

then we had dessert at Waiola Shave Ice. it’s so funny how i had 14 year old Masamune-kun just a few days ago, and now i had 66 year old Asayama-san today. two people from totally different generations, but amazing how surfing and shave ice could make them smile exactly the same way. you should have seen the face of Asayama-san when he got down to the azuki and ice cream on the bottom. haha.
tomorrow we shall surf again. tomorrow we shall eat again. and tomorrow we shall laugh again. see you in the morning Asayama-san!