Saturday November22日 2025年

August 21, 2015 Hawaii Surf Report


Kilo: Another Hurricane coming soon!
Good morning 5:45am.
Shoulder high at Ala Moana.
Head high at Diamond Head.
Light wind now so super clean morning. Trade winds coming back soon. Clouds, sun, showers, and rainbows. Cooler today.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

Baby who Surfs

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had a great time today down at the beach. woke up early and got a few waves at bowls. been a long time since i rode a short board so felt good doing off the lips. can’t wait for tomorrow! then after a quick morning session, it was time for work. i love it!
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the other day i was paddling out and seen something weird. a big guy holding a football? doggie? anyway, this guy came flying down the line so i kept on looking…
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as he got close, i seen Kupe holding his baby! omg, his baby was super stoked!!!!
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then they caught another one. i even saw Kupe put his baby in the tube! it was the coolest thing i ever seen. a year old baby already getting barreled???? OMG!
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his baby was totally stoked paddling back out.
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we are so lucky to live in beautiful hawaii. and this baby is so lucky to have such a great father. seeing things like this makes me so happy!
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an octopus is the coolest creature. it’s amazing how smart they are. so smart that if you spear it in the hole, it will stay in there and die. so the trick is to tease it out of the hole, then grab it with your bare hands. then bring it home, wash it in hawaiian salt, put it in a pot, boil it, and make tako poke. it can’t get any more fresh than that.

Meditation and Speargun for Sale

people think i’m too busy. people think i’m too hyper. people think i’m too fast. and people think i’m crazy. i think so too.
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so how do you slow somebody down like me? meditation. so for the past 6 months or so, i got into mediation. it’s so hard to do, especially for a guy like me. i try doing it at home but no way. just too many distractions. i meditate while i’m free diving but once i get out of the water, my mind goes 100mph again. so now i take a mediation class up at the buddhist temple. we sit in the temple meditating. it’s a 2 hour class starting with meditation followed by a discussion about becoming more calm.
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so beautiful up in the mountains, which is a good place to let your mind go free. now you ask, is it working? i think so. i’m diving deeper, little things don’t bother me as much, and i’m on path to slowing down my life.
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gosh, i was looking back at my panama yellow fin trip photos from last year. it’s what you would call “extreme diving.” a normal person would think we were crazy! even i think we were crazy at times.
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got a nice photo of the Hokulea’s sister voyaging canoe. so beautiful and full with hawaiian culture.
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wanted to say hello to Yumi-chan enjoying her lifestyle here in hawaii! japanese tradition in hawaii. i love it!
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i’m still blown away from the explosion in china. what really happened???
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it looks like a war zone!
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finally, on my last meditation class, i couldn’t clear my mind. i would try and try, but the frustrations of my new speargun was clogging up my mind. i even came home after and did some modifications. tried it again and it’s just not for me. i have over $350 into the gun and i just decided to get rid of it. so it’s for sale. why let something like this taunt my mind so much? bye bye speargun!