Saturday November22日 2025年

August 15, 2015 Hawaii Surf Report

OMG!
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana waist high with sometimes a chest high set.
Diamond Head a windy shoulder high.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

Surf and Pho

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had an awesome time surfing with this young kid Ayumu-kun today. super happy kid that loves the ocean.
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this is the first wave of Ayumu-kun’s life! he stood up perfectly and rode it super long. i could see the pure stoke in his eyes!
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we surfed for over 2 long hours. each time going more out and catching bigger and bigger waves. but the end of the session, we were on the outside catching sets. amazing kid!
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this one is for my memory of this wonderful day surfing with Ayumu-kun. good job kid!
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Mother and Father were watching the whole session. thank you Chida-san and Tomomi-san for the wonderful day!
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then off to the best pho on the island. then shave ice for dessert.
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a super cool family that loves hawaii. and now a newborn surfer kid! hope you all enjoy the rest of your trip in beautiful hawaii!

Email Hacking and Roam!

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want to welcome a newborn into this wonderful world we live in. congratulations Kimura-san on your beautiful baby boy! very very happy news for me.
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turtles are pretty predictable. you can go to the same place every day and see the same turtle. this guy just hangs out all day long on this exact spot.
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you can swim around and he will come close to check you out. pretty big guy.
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when i’m blue water diving, i really don’t care if i spear a fish. all i want to do is dive deep and experience a different world and different feeling. i went down 80′ yesterday and felt so much pressure in my body that i started to feel delirious. it’s an awesome natural high that i love. can’t’ wait to do it again. and again. and again.
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the big news these days is Hilary Clinton’s email scandal. she’s running for president but has a dark cloud over her head. she broke the law by using her private email server for top secret emails. and when she was asked to turn it over, she deleted it. what??? this might be our next president? i’m not into politics but i am human. if you break the law and try to hide it, that’s not smart. i’m sure some chinese hackers are working on it right now to get into her deleted server. the truth will come out. stay tuned.
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Kelia Moniz is still on the top of the world in the surfing industry. everywhere you look, there she is. i drive down waikiki and see huge billboards with her on it, i travel to foreign countries and see her advertisements everywhere too. a superstar world champion!
check out this cool video called “Roam.” good job Kelia!
[vimeo]https://vimeo.com/136107781[/vimeo]