it’s unbelievable how good the waves have been! wind, weather, and swell direction absolutely perfect! seen so many unridden waves today. just look at this!!!

and it’s unbelievable how green diamond head is now. probably the greenest ever! so beautiful!

took my little friend surfing this morning. a kid that i’ve been taking since he was 5 years old. how many surfer kids from japan can say “yeah, i started surfing at 5 years old and have been surfing every year in hawaii ever since.” gosh, i love this kid!

i don’t love coming in to the yacht club and looking at building after building, and crane after crane. every single time i see this, i tell myself “20 years later, i won’t want to live on this island.”

surfed this afternoon with Yumi-chan. it’s unbelievable that a few years ago, she was so scared to surf. now, she’s not afraid of anything!

then we went for a free dive after. it’s unbelievable that Yumi-chan couldn’t even snorkel a few years ago. now, she’s swimming in the ocean like a mermaid!

sunset free dive time. the best way to end an awesome full day in the ocean.

then seen Toda-san on the way back in. Toda-san and Takami-san are the luckiest october surfers ever. they are here for 2 weeks and every single day the waves are going off! today had some head high sets and tomorrow will for sure have some leftovers. can’t wait to surf early morning!

want to thank Chifumi-san for the Lilikoi Butter and limes!!! butter good for toast, and lime good for corona! cheers!

took some photos from our shonan session. will post them shortly but here is one of Matsu.

and here is one of Naoka.

peace brothers! hope to surf with you guys again soon!

i remember 23 years ago when i was driving to shonan beach for the first time. i arrived at Route 134 and turned right. and the next thing i saw was Mt. Fuji! omg! i will never forget what an impact that had on my life. i stared at her thinking about all the years of hearing my grandparents stories of climbing to the top. so walking across Route 134 to go surfing, i always look towards Mt. Fuji. sometimes i can see her, mostly i can’t. so when she decides to show herself, i just stare at her, think about my grandparents, and smile. i spent 1 day in shonan and this is what i saw! so lovely!