it’s unbelievable how good the waves have been! wind, weather, and swell direction absolutely perfect! seen so many unridden waves today. just look at this!!!
and it’s unbelievable how green diamond head is now. probably the greenest ever! so beautiful!
took my little friend surfing this morning. a kid that i’ve been taking since he was 5 years old. how many surfer kids from japan can say “yeah, i started surfing at 5 years old and have been surfing every year in hawaii ever since.” gosh, i love this kid!
i don’t love coming in to the yacht club and looking at building after building, and crane after crane. every single time i see this, i tell myself “20 years later, i won’t want to live on this island.”
surfed this afternoon with Yumi-chan. it’s unbelievable that a few years ago, she was so scared to surf. now, she’s not afraid of anything!
then we went for a free dive after. it’s unbelievable that Yumi-chan couldn’t even snorkel a few years ago. now, she’s swimming in the ocean like a mermaid!
sunset free dive time. the best way to end an awesome full day in the ocean.
then seen Toda-san on the way back in. Toda-san and Takami-san are the luckiest october surfers ever. they are here for 2 weeks and every single day the waves are going off! today had some head high sets and tomorrow will for sure have some leftovers. can’t wait to surf early morning!
