woke up early this morning to watch Joshua’s heat. bummer he lost but stoked he’s in the international surfing spotlight. as he came out of the water, somebody asked him to sign his umbrella. cool!

then went to pick up Fujiwara-san and Ryo-kun. super cool surfers from kanagawa.

Fujiwara-san’s been surfing for only 6 years but is totally hooked on surfing. super stoked to see him riding some good waves and walking the board. gosh, the waves for us couldn’t have been any better.

Ryo-kun’s only 13 years old and has been surfing for 2 years. i taught him how to turn today and he was turning all over the place. super fast learner and super good surfer.

and when he paddled back out after a good wave, you could see the stoke in his smile. such a cute kid that loves surfing!

father and son on a surf trip in hawaii? that’s a dream for any kid. thank you Fujiwara-san and Ryo-kun for the awesome surf session.

seen Keoni out getting the good rights. if it wasn’t for this guy, i wouldn’t have my camera and wouldn’t have these beautiful photos. thanks again Keoni for finding my camera.

seen this chick ripping! she took off, came flying down the line, and did a cutback right in my face. it was awesome!

spray me! girls who surf. yeah!

i heard on that tourism for the month of June was up 6%. over 750,000 tourists came to hawaii in June. and they spent $1.32 billion. really? that’s 148765801717.50 yen spending in one month! wow! aloha from hawaii!
went surfing in the afternoon with the Nanami-san family. always a good time. photos coming tomorrow. been averaging 5-7 hours/day surfing ever since i got back. that’s around 40 hours of surfing in 6 days. no wonder i’m so black and my eyes are sunburnt. anyway, it’s almost 8pm so my bedtime is really soon. gotta go. good night.

Waves still perfect!
Warm, sunny, offshore, shoulder high, and so fun!

super good sessions with Uchiyama-san. cool surfer from Chigasaki with so many awesome dreams.

morning session was low tide so you had to choose the right one. Uchiyama-san on the right one.

afternoon was easier. all the waves were pretty much open. if you were in the right place, you will get the right wave. just like this.

great surfing!

glassy off shore conditions. a surfers dream. thank you again Uchiyama-san!

and yeah, i had to get a few waves for myself too. barrel again!

cutback.

word travels fast here in hawaii. everybody’s been asking me about Super Sunday at big rights. it was incredible. solid 6′ sets and looking like Off The Wall. only a few guys out because most surfers couldn’t make it out. had a great time in the lineup talking to my longtime friend Ross Williams. just taking turns pulling into barrel after barrel. after i caught mine, i seen Ross paddling for a good one. i pull my camera out of my pocket and snap a few shots as i paddle over the wave. i came home and couldn’t believe the results! here is Ross setting up to get barreled. look how big this wave is and look at the barrel behind him. freaking amazing!

you probably never ever seen a barrel shot like this at Big Rights before because it never ever barrels like this. no photographers were out except me taking these photos of this one wave. so here it is, Ross Williams in the big barrel. you might have to wait another 30 years to see something so amazing like this out there. solid 6′, light off shore, clean water, blue sky, and epic waves. can you believe this is Honolulu, Hawaii? i can’t. i’ve never missed a good day out at Big Rights because i was always waiting for a day like this. that day has finally come. July 26, 2015. amen.