Filipino BBQ!
Good morning 5:40am.
South shore chest high and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and side shore.
East winds at 15mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going shooting and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

been riding my Matchi Single Fin by TSSC on the small days. just something different and something that reminds me of surfing 30 years ago. back to the basics.

i let so many people try this board and pretty much get 100% positive feedback.

the difference between a single fin and the more popular truster mainly is drive. you have to put the board on the rail for it to work. and when you go from one turn to another, it keeps the flow.

going to use it again tomorrow because the waves should be dropping off more. then on thursday, another big south swell so going to get back out my thruster.

i went to Palau to spear fish back in 2011. one of the guys on the trip was a doctor from Guam, his name was Mike. on one of the dives, we all got split up because of the strong current. the boat picked us up one by one but we couldn’t find Mike. then we heard a “help, help, help!” and seen Mike in the far distance waving his hands in the air. we speed over to get him and it looked like he just seen a ghost. turned out to be a big shark trying to attack him. Mike was totally freaked out, stunned, and exhausted. he sat up against the cooler thanking God to still be alive. being the photographer on that trip, i shot this photo. it was the moment. have you ever thought you are going to die before? well, this is the look when almost facing death. it’s so calm, relieved, and will change your life forever.

This afternoon surf session.
Every day like this! Paradise!