went in for a surf at bowls this morning. came home and received a photo from Naoka. i asked him who this was and he said “you.” me? really? i don’t even remember getting barreled at bowls this morning.

then went to check big rights at 10:30am. dropping tide, lots of people, and really inconsistent. went home for lunch, then headed back down at 1:30pm. paddled out and waves seemed like it was getting better. heard the morning was terrible. afternoon wasn’t the best either, but good enough when you can ride waves overhead.

i can see every spot. i can see every surfer. i can see every face. then i count the waves. i know when my number will be up and that’s when i know it’s my time to paddle out. surfing is like a game, if you know how to play it, you will be ahead of the field.

then got home this evening and got another photo from Naoka. off the lip at Big Rights this afternoon. thanks Naoka for being a paparazzi. haha.

no, this is not fireworks. this is war in Yemen. yes, we are still involved in many wars!!!

i went to west marine yesterday. my favorite store on the whole island. been there about 500 times because if you own or take care of a boat, you must come here to get parts and supplies.

as i entered the store, something looked different? “are they changing their front door?”

i asked the lady, “what happened?” she said somebody in a truck drove right through the front glass door late at night and stole a lot of things.

they drove through the front glass door, loaded up the truck, and left. and nobody got caught yet. crazy!

and want to hear something more crazy? last week a motorcycle and car were on the freeway. road rage is what they were calling it. the lady in the car got mad and rammed the motorcycle. the 25 year old motorcyclist died, and the lady drove away. yes, hit and run.

the next day they find her black car in a parking lot. the motorcycle parts stuck in the front grill. they went to the ladies house, arrested her, and let her go the next day. she had 10 prior tickets for “driving without a license and insurance.” she was arrested one week before this accident. she drove and killed the motorcyclist. she got arrested again for that. now she’s on the road probably driving again. i would have posted her photo online but i’m scared of this lady. don’t want her looking for me and ramming her car into my motorcycle.
just some news that won’t make it to japan so i thought i’d share. hawaii is a very beautiful place. but like anywhere else in the world, we have our problems.

Nap time in China.
Good morning 6:10am.
South swell continues.
Ala Moana overhead sets and clean.
Waikiki shoulder high.
Diamond Head 4′ and bumpy.
East winds at 25mph becoming South/East later today and all week long.
Cloudy morning becoming super sunny and warm.
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day!