want to thank Kenna-san for the great time in hawaii!

and want to thank Marki-san for the great time too!

summer is in full swing! i think the best summer in a very long time. the waves and weather have been just so perfect!

i’ve been paying more attention to my yard recently. just cleaning up and planting new life everywhere. and when you wake up, leave the house, and get a fresh scent of a sweet gardenia, it can make your day a whole lot better.

been seeing some funky geckos too.

i didn’t know geckos only had 4 fingers?

ok, it’s about that time of year again. a time when i start to get excited about surfing japan. it’s rainy season now so hopefully the rivers will break open, then come late july, maybe a typhoon will push perfect swells for perfect waves. this was somewhere in wakayama last year. this year, who knows? hopefully my friends will keep me posted and share with me some of the best waves in the world. i’m already packing! haha.

Not really paradise.
Good morning 6am.
Solid South swell continues.
Ala Moana head high and super good.
Diamond Head 4′ and morning sickness.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Super sunny and warm.
Another South swell on Thursday.
Going surfing,
Have a wonderful day!

last night went to Doraku at 8pm. had a great time with my classmates from middle school to now. that’s 36 years i knew both Carter and Holli. had a great talk until the restaurant staff kicked us out at 1:30am. seems like we never have enough time to catch up. friends are so precious and priceless. hold on to them forever.

went to grab a taro smoothie on the way down to the beach from Shaka Shaka.

it was yet another beautiful day! just perfect surf and perfect quality time with the kids.

can’t believe how grown up Carter’s kid Conner is. a Punahou grad, a surfer, very handsome, and a very respectful young man. good fathering Carter!

we had such a great time in the ocean. then came back to reality with a beautiful rainbow to greet us.

i just downloaded the photos off my camera from today. super good waves surfing with Carter and the kids. i even got a few barrels to be stoked about.

by far, this father’s day was the best ever. hanging out with very important people, surfing, getting barreled, and documenting every moment. i realized through my friends that i am a very lucky guy. yes, they all say i’m very stubborn, but i’m also very lucky to be living my dream life. after coming out of a barrel today, i saw this photo Mia took of me. i looked at it good and realized how happy i really am. the best feeling of the world of coming out of a barrel and staring at your princess cheering you on. yeah!
tomorrow the south swell continues. going to surf my dream! see you there!