yesterday was yet, another life changing day for me. i went to attend a family funeral service for a great man who lived a great life. it wasn’t a funeral service, instead, it was a celebration of life. happy smiles, and laughs, and happy tears.

it was my first time seeing such honor that was recognized. many members of the hawaii fire department showed up to show it’s respect for one of their own. i got chicken skin when they rang the final bell. so honorable and so respectable. now i have even a greater respect for firefighters than i already had. these guys risk their lives every single day for us.

the pastor spoke a great message. “family and friends are important. life and death is important. live your life to the fullest and when it’s your time to go, we can all celebrate your life too.” it made me realize how lucky i am to have such awesome family and friends around me. and it also makes me think about the way i want my life to be remembered. please don’t come to my funeral, come to my celebration of my life. i want happy smiles and happy tears. there is no reason in the world to feel sorry for me. i’m complete. i’m satisfied. and i’m content.

always great to see the family sticking together. Kelia is the most loving person in the world. millions of people in the world love this girl, but not as much as we all love her. a magical smile that can make everybody’s day a lot better.

there was a major accident on the way back to town so traffic was crazy. i usually hate traffic. but this time, i loved it. how could i complain about something so small? life is too precious to be worrying about the small stuff. i actually enjoyed taking my time on the way back to honolulu. the only thing i was bummed out about was the fact that there will be a monorail train running above our beautiful island soon.

then i grab my board, head to the beach in the evening. the ocean can heal my mind, body, and soul. i kept on surfing and surfing. kept on riding and riding. kept on thinking and thinking. kept on smiling and smiling. i didn’t want to come in until the sun went down. and as i paddled into darkness with my little princess, i thought to myself “what a wonderful world we live in.”

Study Hard!
Good morning 6:20am.
North shore chest high and windy.
South shore waist high and windy.
Small waves today.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Morning clouds and super sunny warm afternoon.
Warm weather, warm water, summer is here!
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

i had a great time surfing with Morita-san. first time surfer and first time to hawaii.

balance is key to surfing. and looking forward too. good job Morita-san!

surfing will change your life in a good healthy way. and will also make you smile a lot more. thank you Morita-san!

Time Magazines top 100 world’s most influential people just came out. so stoked to see japanese writer Haruki Murakami on the list. sold billions of books and has trillions of followers, including me.

first i read 1Q84, then Norwegian Wood, then i just finished this book called Colorless. all great books and i’m looking forward to the next one.

Maki-san sent me this instagram post from zaknoyle. this is Seth Moniz getting barreled at Ala Moana Bowls. such an awesome photo by Zak Noyle. by the way, where is Seth now? Seth is in Fiji chasing that huge south swell with photographer Zak Noyle, and mad man big wave rider and deep free diver Mark Healey. i’m sure Seth is learning a lot about surviving in the water in this 1 week on the island of taverna. he will come home tomorrow a man for sure. can’t’ wait to hear the stories!