had a great time surfing with Miyako-san yesterday. super cool surfer girl from tokyo that loves to surf in hawaii.

every year, Miyako-san is getting better and better. great balance and awesome focus. the waves were pretty big yesterday, probably the biggest i’ve ever taken her out to. but she charged the big sets and surfed it perfectly.

beauty meets beauty. awesome photo.

thank you Miyako-san for the wonderful surf session! keep on surfing and see you again!

Isaiah Moniz will always be my little nephew. even though he’s a man now, i still think of him as a little kid. just too many precious memories watching him grow up. of all the 5 Moniz kids, Isaiah liked fishing the most. so when it was time to go fishing, i would ask him first, then he would invite who ever he wanted. i just could see the passion he had for fishing and all the excitement when reeling in a tiny fish.

so when it was the special day for ahi fever, Isaiah was the first guy i called. and when i think about it, this wasn’t beginners luck after all. Isaiah’s been fishing his whole life and has put many hours holding a pole. this day was his day, this day was our day, this day will go into my top 5 fishing experiences in my lifetime. i am so happy that we shared it together. the little fisherman boy became a man.
and like i said, i’m retiring from ahi fever. if this memory is the last memory of my lifetime of chasing ahi’s, it’s all good. just the way i want it. total success!

Surfing is Booming!
Good morning 6:15am.
Chest high sets at Ala Moana. Clean and crowded.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 12mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, rainbows.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

had a great time yesterday afternoon surfing with Yoshizawa-san. a surfer for 32 years that knows the true history of japanese surfing. we had a great conversation!

the waves got a lot bigger in the afternoon. lots of waves and lots of duck diving. cool underwater photo of Yoshizawa-san!

thank you for the wonderful afternoon Yoshizawa-san! keep on surfing!

i was cleaning up my closet and found a tshirt i was saving for the past 10 years.

photo tshirt by spice clothing japan. cool underwater photo yeah?

“If you don’t go, you don’t know.” that’s my lifetime quote and that’s how i live my life. i go, so i know. haha.

i took this photo back in the Banyaks many years ago. that 7 day trip was amazing. we left on a boat from padang, stopped in terms, stopped in bias, then surfed the banyaks. then did the same thing all the way back. we must have traveled for a total of 48 hours each way. i remember the captain telling me that this charter was losing money for him because all the gas we used. omg, i could imagine.

was playing under the water yesterday. just loving every minute of it!

my friend sent me this photo he found off the web somewhere. first time i seen it! must have been a few years ago at backdoor. gosh, now i want to get barreled again!

it’s amazing how much love Tomo-chan has for her daughter. i see them playing in the ocean almost every day. such a lucky daughter that will love her mom forever.