omg again and again. the waves were perfect again!!! solid 4′ sets and lots of barreling waves to be found.

Hirano-san and i surfed 2 rounds today. super surfed out and super tired. we practically surfed until our arms were like rubber. come to find out, Hirano-san is 55 years old!! OMG, 55 years and ripping! must be the rice in akita, japan.

just another beautiful day. perfect waves and perfect rides.

gosh, when i turn 55, i hope i can surf like this. super solid bottom turn with lots of drive. great surfing Hirano-san!

got a few good waves for myself too. snuck out to the lineup at bowls and got 2 epic head high sets! my board is working good and my body is working good too. i just love it when the spray comes off the tail like this.

Hirano-san surfs and fishes for his hobby. he has 2 boats in japan so we had lots to talk about these past 2 days. ate a healthy sandwich for lunch, ate some mochi ice cream, surfed 2 rounds, went shopping, and had lots of laughs. thank you Hirano-san for the great time. i hope to be so energetic like you when i get to be 55 years old! keep on surfing.

i’m completely sunburnt and it’s only the start of summer! the days go on with surfing and meeting awesome people every day. can’t wait till tomorrow as i get ready to sleep. omg, it’s only 7:30pm now. haha and good night.

Solid 4′ South swell!!
So happy!

ok, part 2 of yesterday. so many things happening, so many things going on, and not enough time to keep up. i picked up Hirano-san yesterday afternoon and we went for a quick surf session. paddled out to bowls but after seeing 40 surfers out, i looked left and seen empty rock piles. only a few surfers and the waves were as perfect as it gets. so we turned left and had the best 1 hour session ever!

it’s the first time i surfed with Hirano-san so i didn’t know what to expect. then i saw him paddle for his first wave, stood up, and surfed like a pro! he was ripping! 35 years of experience under his belt making for perfect rail to rail surfing. we exchanged many waves for an hour, even a few barrels, then it got crowded, and then we went in. couldn’t have timed it any more perfectly.

Hirano-san duck dive in the dark room.

coming from Akita, i’m sure it felt good to take off, go down the line, and do the biggest carving cutback in paradise.

thank you Hirano-san for the wonderful afternoon. see you again this morning and let’s do it all again!

and yes, the water has been so clean this summer! cleaner than usual so even going under the wave feels so good! i love this amazing world!