everyday i surf, i see a rainbow. in fact, sometimes i see hundreds of rainbows. all you have to do is position yourself behind a wave with the sun at your back. then go over the wave and watch the offshore spray fly off the wave. you will see it for sure.

there it is on the left side. a rainbow on every single wave. mornings and afternoons only. this is Yokomura-san into the rainbow. next time you go surfing, check it out.

for the past year, i’ve been seeing this little kid surfing every single day out at rock piles. he’s very shy and very quiet. i ask his name, he says “Aoi.” i ask his age, he says “12.” i keep on watching this kid trying and trying to get better every day. kind of reminded me when i was a kid his age surfing every day. so i go home, dig up an old Seth Moniz surfboard from under my house. i clean it up, take it to the beach, and give it to him. you should have seen his eyes. he was so happy but being so shy, he couldn’t express it. such a humble, quiet, and respectful kid. i wish i was like him when i was 12 years old, but instead, i was the total opposite. haha.

since then, i’ve been watching Aoi getting better and better on that magic board. watch out for this kid! Go-Aoi!

A woman Looking for a husband never had one.
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana chest high and very clean.
Diamond Head head high sets and little bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, rain, and rainbows.
Warm weather.
Surfing all day.
See you in the water!

isn’t nature so amazing? this is a live volcano in Chile. i would love to see it with my own eyes in person. someday that day will come.

i want to thank Ueno-san for sending me his new CD “Silent Time.” super cool surfer rocker!!!

thank you Ueno-san. hope all is going well with your wonderful family. please tell your 2 beautiful daughters Mari-chan and Ai-chan i said hello. keep on rocking!

wow, i ate it all! thank you Komatsubara-san for hitting my sweet spot!

i woke up this morning with a text photo from my friend Reid. i had to look twice, or even three times. i knew the surfer was Kelia Moniz, but i couldn’t comprehend her charging such a huge wave. no, this is not photoshop, this is freaking real! Kelia is in Tahiti charging big Teahupoo. i don’t know who the heck gave her permission to surf this wave. i know her mom, dad, brothers, and uncles wouldn’t let her do it. and if i was there, i wouldn’t dare let her even try. Teahupoo kills. it’s the deadliest wave in the world. yes, Kelia is 2x world champion, but this is out of her league. and riding a long 9’0 longboard makes it more impossible. after i seen this photo, i knew she didn’t make the drop. just way too steep for a long board. but if she had a 6’6 short board, she could have made it easily.

yes, she fell. and when you fall at Teahupoo, you don’t penetrate, you slide. sliding down a powerful wave with only 3′ of water below you is like staring death in the eyes. whoever let her ride that wave is a very lucky man Kelia is still alive. don’t you dare let her do that crap again. lucky she is alive and i have a message to Kelia, “get your ass home and stop doing stupid things.” but hey, i have to say i’m very proud of you. and i’m sure your brothers are very very jealous. haha.