3 days in a row!
Love Love Love it!

my friend Ray sent me some info about secrets spots in indonesia. they just built a new road alone the coastline and supposedly there are tons of secret spots along the way. very interesting! should i go?

then Miwa-san sending me last weeks lineup shot on some secret island. i’ve been there before 15 years ago and i think it’s about time for me to go again. typhoon season 2015 here i come!!!

talking about secret spots. the past 2 days i surfed this outer reef in waikiki. first day good, second day better. super long rights with not too many surfers. in fact, yesterday was saturday but only had 1 guy out in the evening. i wasn’t planning to surf, but after watching many empty waves going to waste, i had to enjoy a few. ended up surfing super long and super hard.

mandatory to have a surfboard in the boat no matter what. i keep this single fin in there so i’m prepared at all times.

surfing into the sunset. i surfed in the morning, did some yoga, then surfed in the evening. an awesome day in paradise.

Synchronicity.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Waikiki waist high and clean.
Waves better in the afternoon.
Diamond Head shoulder high and windy. But good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Super sunny summer day.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!