my grand nephew was at my house yesterday hanging out. he’s been coming over very often recently. always pointing to the surfboard and dances when i say “surfing!” want to take him surfing again and will do when i get back to hawaii. anyway, he brought his back pack over. i told him to put it on and model it for me. he puts it on and stands near the wall for the photo.

then i tell him to turn around. he turns around and shows off his backpack to me. this kid is only 1 year old but understands everything i say. so smart!

then i lie down on the bed. i always lie down with my hands behind my head. do it all the time and Mateus decided to copy me. such a cute kid! and no, he’s not for sale. i already tried to buy him from his mother. haha.

i jumped on a 8 hour flight to osaka yesterday. i must have been tired because i fell asleep before it even took off. then i wake up and see this meal in front of me. the flight attendant tells me we will land in 1 hour. omg, i slept for 7 straight hours!

then i jump on a train. love to people watch. seen this girl wearing glasses. then she gets her eyedrops out of her bag and drops it right into her eye. right through the glasses! i was dumbfounded. what? i take a better look and her glasses didn’t have any lens in it??? what? fashion? weird?
cool night in osaka last night. sunny right now. glad to be back in japan. love the food, love the people, and love the culture. just don’t love the new glasses people are using these days. haha.

To Japan.

monday was the biggest day of the swell. surfed it for 7 hours and felt like i was on a surf trip or something. i got home at night totally burnt. passed in the channel at bowls 6 times that day. stopped and watched for a wave or two. always one hand on my camera, and one hand on the throttle so i can run when the close out sets come. the best view in the world sitting high watching everybody getting barreled! check out this sequence.

this is perfect positioning. take off behind the peak, grab your rail, and set up for the barrel.

this is getting deep. still holding onto the rail so you can pull your board a little up and ride the high line.

this is commitment. knowing you will exit the dream tunnel.

i was watching boats begin super cautious. they would wait on the outside until the ocean seems calm. then when they get the chance, full throttle ahead!

this $200,000 boat captain wasn’t taking any chances. i wouldn’t either.

there have been many accidents with boat vs. wave in this channel. if you don’t pay attention, you could sink your dream boat in a minute. we’ve all seen it before.

the boys of the big bowl. super stoked to see everybody enjoying this wonderful first big swell of the summer season.

and yes, Ronnie always gets the best waves. he waits, waits, and waits. i’m pretty sure he waited a very long time for this one, and scored! looks like pipeline! and after i took this photo, i full throttled to get out of the way. scary!