Solid 6′ swell!
Many barrels!
So happy.
Going get drinky!
Cheers!

i cut my trip 2 days short for 3 reasons. one is because of the uncertainty of getting a flight out of japan. it’s summer time so most flights are oversold this summer. didn’t want to get stuck. second reason is i had 3 perfect days of perfect surf. today is sunday in japan so it’s local time. third, there is a big 6′ south swell hitting oahu right now! it’s a no brainer.

like always, i take my seat, close my eyes, and wake up right before landing. the most comfortable ride in the sky.

this is what got me excited to go to japan last week. then it disappeared. then it reappeared. weird typhoon but i’ll take it.

this is today. waves still pumping in japan. i almost went to okinawa but luckily i didn’t because i heard all flights out of okinawa were canceled yesterday because of the typhoon. i would have been screwed.

i woke up this morning, looked at the ocean, and knew it was going to be a good day. just got home, drank my kombucha, going to eat lunch, take a nap, get barreled, and sleep really good tonight. i’m watching the waves now and it’s perfect!

but hey, no spot here in hawaii is more perfect than japan river mouths. it’s super easy once you make the crazy drop. just have to turn sideways and enjoy the ride. and if you don’t make it, you fall into pebbles that feel like a giant bean bag. it’s pretty cool. once again i want to thank the japanese locals for sharing their precious waves with me all these years. i’m already checking the charts because i’m looking for the next opportunity to go back. enjoy your sunday in japan and hope you guys are still getting barreled!

Oh. Feel so good!
See you in Hawaii!