i took the long way to el salvador and even a longer way back. plane rides, waiting, getting stuck, and long transits don’t bother me anymore. i just learned how to go with the flow. everything happens for a reason right?

got stuck in SFO on the way back. so i rent a room, borrow a car, and head to the ocean. seen a pretty amazing sunset!

is this a seagull? pelican? what ever it was, it tried to bite me when i took this photo.

seen some fisherman down at the pier catching some very small tako. i wanted to tell this lady to let the poor baby tako back into the ocean. but she had better plans for it.

then pulled up into the mountains and seen something running around in the tree. do you see it?

a squirrel! cool!

another amazing sunset watching it with the birds.

just got some photos from my amigo. so stoked to have this beautiful time just hanging out with such mellow cool surfers.

and stoked to see Satoko surfing better than ever. this is a perfect bottom turn girl!

and love the spray! when my friends surf good, i feel good! great surfing amigo!

this night was cool sitting in the middle of the street eating pupusa. not too many tourists now but i could see this place becoming like kuta, bali in 10 years. that will be sad.

i’ve seen Satoko get hurt so many times. one time skateboarding down diamond head and falling head over heels. so this little reef cut is nothing to worry about. i’m sure she got back up and went surfing. haha.

and stoked to see the rest of the salvador boys taking the amigos to the airport. from start to finish, all great guys.

Frozen.
Good morning 6:15am.
North shore 2-3′ and perfect. Rocky Point best.
South shore 1-2′ and perfect. Diamond Head best.
No wind so perfect conditions everywhere.
Super sunny and warm.
Surfing all day.
Have a wonderful day!

had another awesome day. started down at the beach for the 2nd annual Ocean’s Love in Hawaii by Angela Maki Vernon. stoked to see some of the kids from last year, and also some new kids this year. all eager to surf, and all eager to learn.

hundreds of volunteers help out each year in japan and hawaii. i’m super happy to be a part of something so special. the kids caught so many good waves and i can’t wait to do it again on wednesday.

found my favorite food from miyazaki on my doorstep. thank you Satoshi Kubota for the smoked chicken. i love it!

if you have the eye, you have the eye. if you don’t have the eye, a little practice will make you see things from a photographers prospective. i gave a 13 year old girl my camera one evening to see what she can do with it. here’s what she captured. freaking amazing!

and the dolphins coming in close to shore. right off waikiki!

in photography, timing is everything. this photo was timed perfectly.

this one is my favorite. this kids got the eye! good job Mia.

last night i taught my grand nephew something new. i taught him who Kikaida was. he sits with me while i’m working on my computer and always points to my Kikaida doll. so last night, i said “Kikaida!” then he said “kukiaieada!” close enough. haha.
had a super awesome afternoon session at my super secret secret spot with Hikaru. good waves, clean water, and the best nature surf spot on the whole south shore. she asked me the name of the surf spot and my answer was “i can’t tell you.” that was that.