Good timing!
Good morning 6:15am.
South swell arrived!
Ala Moana shoulder high and offshore.
Diamond Head overhead and side winds.
Waikiki chest high and super clean.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm day.
Swell getting bigger today and tomorrow.
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day!

woke up early this morning because had a very long day ahead. started off doing yard work.

cleaned up and found something weird? i was about to pull out this big weed and thought to myself “wow, this is an interesting weed?” come to find out, it’s an avocado tree!!! omg, before the other avocado tree died, it dropped an avocado, it rained, and it grew! a very healthy new avocado tree. amazing how life comes from death.

then seen the sun so washed and polished the truck. it was perfect! then i walk back into my house and hear the rain pouring hard! OMG! then drove to yoga and did 1.5 hours of pure satisfaction.

took the boys out for a walk. i asked Mateus if he wanted to go surfing again and he started dancing! so cute!

then went surfing with Kanazawa-san. such a great surfer from Kamakura. she’s been doing SUP for the past 3 years so i’m sure she had some fun paddling into and riding those big long waves today. such a great person with a great surfers soul. thank you Kanazawa-san! keep on surfing.

well, waves started coming up and not too surprised. solid chest high and perfect this evening. Seth flew to fiji last week to surf 10′ waves so i knew it was coming. expect epic south/west swells this whole week with offshore winds. i’m so happy!
have a beautiful evening!

yesterday was yet, another life changing day for me. i went to attend a family funeral service for a great man who lived a great life. it wasn’t a funeral service, instead, it was a celebration of life. happy smiles, and laughs, and happy tears.

it was my first time seeing such honor that was recognized. many members of the hawaii fire department showed up to show it’s respect for one of their own. i got chicken skin when they rang the final bell. so honorable and so respectable. now i have even a greater respect for firefighters than i already had. these guys risk their lives every single day for us.

the pastor spoke a great message. “family and friends are important. life and death is important. live your life to the fullest and when it’s your time to go, we can all celebrate your life too.” it made me realize how lucky i am to have such awesome family and friends around me. and it also makes me think about the way i want my life to be remembered. please don’t come to my funeral, come to my celebration of my life. i want happy smiles and happy tears. there is no reason in the world to feel sorry for me. i’m complete. i’m satisfied. and i’m content.

always great to see the family sticking together. Kelia is the most loving person in the world. millions of people in the world love this girl, but not as much as we all love her. a magical smile that can make everybody’s day a lot better.

there was a major accident on the way back to town so traffic was crazy. i usually hate traffic. but this time, i loved it. how could i complain about something so small? life is too precious to be worrying about the small stuff. i actually enjoyed taking my time on the way back to honolulu. the only thing i was bummed out about was the fact that there will be a monorail train running above our beautiful island soon.

then i grab my board, head to the beach in the evening. the ocean can heal my mind, body, and soul. i kept on surfing and surfing. kept on riding and riding. kept on thinking and thinking. kept on smiling and smiling. i didn’t want to come in until the sun went down. and as i paddled into darkness with my little princess, i thought to myself “what a wonderful world we live in.”