Rain or Shine. It’s ON!
Good morning 7am.
Ala Moana waist high with little bigger sets. Clean waves, dirty water.
Diamond Head chest high and clean.
Light winds so good morning conditions.
Rain, clouds, dark, lovely.
Have a wet wonderful day!

another fun day surfing and another 40 waves ridden. Ushijima-san’s going back to japan tomorrow with 80 waves ridden in the past 2 days. and the great thing is he’s going back right into a typhoon swell. super lucky timing for this hard core surfer! keep on surfing Ushijima-san!

we had a poke bowl and shave ice for lunch. gosh, great for my 20 minute afternoon nap.

want to thank Uchiyama-san for sending me the photos of the typhoon swell starting in Chigasaki. gosh, i remember standing on this very overpass 23 years ago checking the waves every single day. brings back my youthful japan sweet memories.

spent time with my grandnephew yesterday watching Elmo and eating pistachio nuts. i taught him how to open the pistachio nuts and he was so happy!

super stoked to see Matsu so successful in photography. i’d say he’s pretty international and pretty famous in what he does. great work Shinsuke Matsukawa!

showing the beautiful japanese culture through the lens.

gosh, makes me want to go back to japan!
ok, i’m not surprised, but Hawaii is worst city in U.S. to make a living. yes, most expensive, most expensive, and most expensive. everything costs more to buy, and the average working persons salary is 1/3 lower than others on the mainland USA. the homeless problem is growing each year just as fast as the high rise luxury condos going up. it’s just going to get more expensive with less paying jobs so better start saving your money if you want to continue living here. just look at the differences in prices compared to Texas.

Reid pulling in this morning. Good waves, good surfers, good vibe, good day!