Friday November14日 2025年

Hawaiian Buta Maruyaki

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at 6:30am, somebody seen a 12′ hammerhead shark in waikiki. so the police and fireman told all the surfers and swimmers to get out of the water. it was the big news for this morning. listening it on my radio driving to the beach, i thought it was funny. a hammerhead shark is harmless. yeah, they get aggressive sometimes and come close to you. but to close waikiki beach is going a little too far. every single time i dive in waikiki, i see a shark, sometimes two, and sometimes six. if i reported it, the beach would be closed every day of the year. that’s crazy.
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got a call from my friend Brandon early this morning, “hey kirby, you like roast one pig?” so i’m thinking “roasted suckling pig.” he said “come up and and grab um.” i say “shoots!”
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i head deep into the mountains and see my friend wrestling with a little pig. haha. he had his knife and was ready to stab him in the heart. i look at the pig and it was so cute! i look at him and say, “brah, we can’t kill him!” so what happened? i can’t tell you what happened after this.
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the wild pigs come down from the mountain and eat up the residents gardens. it’s like “whole foods” for free! i would too if i were a pig. so the owners call my friend Brandon, then he goes up, hides in the mountain, and wrestles the pigs out. it’s actually pretty funny watching him.
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the small cute pigs are the best eating. in bali, we order this all the time. my mouth is watering now!!!
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spent a relaxing hour washing and waxing the truck. looks brand new again!
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then went to watch the waves at bowls go from waist high to flat as the high tide moved in. the smallest day of the year.
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wanted to welcome Shun Murakami back to hawaii. he’s here for the WQS contest at bowls this weekend. i’ll be in the water shooting it all day so get ready for some awesome photos coming up soon. the next south swell is coming slowly but surely all the way from new zealand. approximate time of arrival is thursday evening. yeah!

For Sale: Open Tree House

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i had an awesome time surfing with Yoshimura-san and Nijiro-kun. makes me so happy to see such a great father/son relationship.
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Nijiro-kun is only 10 years old. kind of border line age of surfing tandem with me, or going alone. he wanted to do it all alone and this is this kids first wave of his life. awesome.
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i couldn’t count how many waves he caught. he wanted to surf more and more. and after every ride, he had the cutest and purest smile!
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i’d have to say that this is perfect form. look forward, bend your knees, and enjoy the ride. good job Nijiro-kun!
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Yoshimura-san too is so stoked on surfing. very energetic and always smiling.
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great balance and great form.
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father and son in the clear warm water, blue sky, and beautiful diamond head.
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thank you again boys for the great memory!
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i stopped with a friend yesterday at an open house. she couldn’t believe this million dollar view.
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and we both couldn’t believe when we walked into this amazing house. there was a huge tree in the middle of the house! it was freaking so beautiful and by far the nicest house i’ve ever walked into. one of the band members from Fleetwood Mac designed it and he did an excellent job. it’s for sale and if you want to buy it, it’s only $8,000,000 or 957,940,000 yen. as we left, we both pledged to work hard, save money, and one day own an amazing house like this. dreams come true.

May 18, 2015 Hawaii Surf Report

Very smart!
Good morning 6am.
Tiny waves today.
Knee/waist high at Ala Moana.
3-4′ South swell on Friday.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Super sunny and warm.
Going to the ocean.
Have a wonderful day!