before we paddled out, i told Ushijima-san that he’s going to score! everybody here in hawaii is totally surfed out so he came at the perfect time.

the waves were super glassy and perfect. rights and lefts all morning long. look how beautiful this wave is! and nobody around!!! nice wave Ushijima-san!

super good surfing and super good wave.

i watched and watched Ushijima-san catch so many waves. i kept on yelling “GO!” and he would go.

this is total score!

and i was super happy to be surfing in such a peaceful place. no stress, no problems, and no traffic.

great surfing Ushijima-san. and want to say hello to all my surfer friends in Toyama! hope to surf your secret spots again soon!

the day is finally coming! tomorrow night to be exact. the waikiki shell at 5:30pm! Christopher Cross, Little River Band, and Kalapana! OMG, it’s going to be cool, mellow, and old school. see you there.

For Sale: $3.3 Million
Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana chest high sets and perfect.
Waikiki waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and windy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sun, rain, rainbows.
Very uncrowded.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

i check my mailbox and get a letter from a stranger? i open it, look inside, and find a note and $5. who and what is this???

then i remember!!! i found this guys license floating in the ocean and sent it back to him in washington. i guess he got my name and address from the return address because he sent me a very thoughtful letter. at the end, it says: P.S. Enjoy a “Cool” beverage! thank you sir! i will go buy me an ice cold beer with the money. i really appreciate it!

well, another picture perfect day today. blue sky and white clouds. lovely.

went surfing with Ushijima-san from Toyama. super good surfer and super cool guy. can you believe he caught 40 waves today? just wave after wave after wave. it was awesome! see you tomorrow early morning again Ushijima-san. let’s catch 40 more!

diamond head looked fun too but ala moana was way better. better winds and better conditions. but even thought diamond head is a little windier, it’s still a beautiful wave.

omg, can’t wait to eat these!!!

custard pie from Toyama. thank you Ushijima-san!