i had a great last day in japan. we took a 1 hour walk around tokyo and it was cool to see things from a different perspective. looking at all the high rises thinking “how the heck did they build this roppongi tower?” then people watching was fun too. different styles, different jobs, and different lifestyles. but the most thing that caught my eye was how hard people work in japan. from construction, to police, to restaurant staff, to pretty much anything. everybody working so hard without any distractions. came back to hawaii today and seen a policeman talking on his cell phone while directing traffic, seen a construction worker smoking a cigarette drinking a coke. then i thought to myself “welcome back to hawaii!” haha.

yesterday, i also went to visit a friend in a tokyo hospital who isn’t doing too well. walking into the room, i had mixed emotions. a part of me happy to see him, and another part of me sad to see him in that condition. he’s much older than me and i know he had a great life. when i held his hand, i could feel him squeezing my hand trying to tell me something. no, i’m not a psychic or anything, but i could feel him trying to tell me to keep healthy and to enjoy my life. just by the vibrations, i could feel the connection. i felt happy, i felt alive, and i felt like there are many things i must do before i die. been thinking of it ever since and now that i’m back in hawaii, i have a part of me that wants to live my life to the full extent for him. so the next time i see him, i can squeeze his hand and tell him “thank you very much!” hang in there my friend.

Thank you Miwa-san!

3am in the morning and i’m looking for a place to go. i have 4 days to explore on the way to new york. not interested at all in america so i’m looking elsewhere. first, there has to be good surf. second, it has to be somewhere i’ve never been before, and third, it has to be nice. so when i looked at this photo of a spot down south, it looked tempting.

so i researched a little more. found where the next south swell will hit, and this is where i want to be positioned when it shows.

and if i get barreled, let it be. i’m so excited! can’t wait to get home and start packing again. but first, i still have to get home. and second, i still have to unpack. one thing at a time. slow down kirby. haha. but hopefully i will be in one of these big pits next week!