went to hang out with my old school friends last night at Morimoto in the Modern Hotel. it was my first time there and i didn’t even know how to get into the restaurant. passed by the cool Modern pool and it looked pretty beautiful.

the food was a mix of japanese in the pacific. super high quality. i’d say my favorites were the butterfish, sushi, crab, and steak. all excellent!

had a great time talking and catching up. talking about our first japan trip, food, games, yoga, bodybuilding, baking, and how to live a stress free life. we stayed in Morimoto so long that they pretty much kicked us out. they didn’t ask us to leave, but they came and said “last call” 5 times. we kept on laughing and laughing until they finally turned on the bright lights. then it was time to move to another bar.

wanted to say Happy Birthday to my friend John. a super successful business man with a beautiful wife and beautiful life. gosh, we have some super crazy memories these past 25 years.

and always good to see my friend Bobby, owner of Vertra. another success story.

took some photos of the amazing dessert.

loved it all. chocolate and sake.

i thought that was an egg, but turned out to be some kind of cream. felt so good riding home on the motorcycle at 1:30am. cool wind and cool ride.

had a super blue day today. surfed with a cool chick, and had an awesome time surfing and enjoying each ride.

the waves might be small, but it is still good to short board and SUP.

my friend Carter and i almost put a tourist in a triangle. luckily we surf good enough to avoid a huge accident. i teach everybody i surf to always paddle around when coming back to the outside. this tourist was surfing alone so nobody taught him surf safety. abunai.

then i went for another awesome friends surprise birthday party. beers, food, friends, beach, and sunset. today was another perfect day in paradise.

good night from honolulu, hawaii. see you tomorrow!

A beautiful surfing day!

after traveling for so many years and meeting so many people, i kind of know who are the good guys, and who are the bad guys. not even a few minutes on the beach, i came across these two cool el salvadoran surfer dudes. we talked, i asked so many questions. one was “where will be the best spot to surf tomorrow?” they pointed down the road and said about 30 minutes to the south. i told them “ok, please take me there, i’ll give you guys gas money.” they come to my hotel at 5am, knock on my door, grab my board for me, walk me to their car, and drive me 30 minutes south. i get out and couldn’t believe how good the waves were! nobody out and just perfect rights! i grab my board, paddle out, the guys grab their camera and video, follow me, and shoot my whole session.

after it’s done, they take me back to my hotel, pull out their laptop, show me the footage, and everybody is happy. I’m sure i found the best guys possible!

then we started to talk surfing stories. this kid couldn’t understand why i could come all the way from hawaii to surf in el salvador. i told him “i came here to get away from the crowd, surf a different wave, and meet new people.” he looked at me and said “oh, you came to the right place for that.” haha.

this was my first wave i caught on that trip. i remember this perfect right point wave coming to me, i turn around, take off, bottom turn, and see the longest wall ahead of me. so excited that i almost fell off my board.

came up the the perfect glassy wall and did a carve. gosh, it felt so good on my first ever wave in central america!

then i look down and it started to barrel. i pull in, get barreled, come out, and think to myself “are you kidding me??? is this a joke???” it was one of those moments where i thought someday was playing a trick on me.
i was the happiest surfer in the entire world! el salvador is a place i will definitely go back for more dreams to come true.