had a great time surfing with Murasaki-san. she tried to SUP the other day but had a bad experience so she was a bit nervous on her surfing debut. taught her the basics on the beach and knew she would do well.

this is the first wave of her life! took off on a pretty big one, stood up, and rode it for super long. check out her smile! cool. after this, everything was so easy!

it’s incredible how surfing can bring out the biggest smiles. i’m just as happy to see the pure stoke through surfing. great job Murasaki-san! keep on surfing and keep on smiling!

ok, we have our first storm of the year. it’s el nino so expect many many more. the water is just too warm so you can feel something strange happening. i just hope everybody in hawaii keeps calm. please don’t go out and buy all the water and toilet paper.

this is the west pacific right now. 3 typhoons that are going to dump rain, high winds, and huge surf. please be safe.

for japan, this is normal. twenty plus typhoons every single year. for 20 years, i use to chase each and every one. only thinking about the waves, not thinking about the people. now, i think about the people and just hope everyone will be ok.

been teaching this young girl how to become a photographer. yesterday, i took her out front row for the best action on the south shore. gave her the camera and let her go wild!

Isaiah Moniz on the inside bowl.

Isaiah Moniz covered up.

gosh, what a beautiful wave!

Hiroto Ohara off the lip.

double drop in. welcome to bowls!

setting up.

Kaulana Apo making it.
All Photos by MTF.

Flex
Good morning 6:30am.
South shore swell continues!
Solid overhead at Ala Moana. Good conditions.
Diamond Head 5′ and windy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny, warm, showers, and rainbows.
Going surfing and shooting.
Have a wonderful day!