another long and beautiful day goes by. woke up at 5am.

went to check out the waves in waikiki. seen this girl with a selfie stick early in the morning.

i had a feeling that queens was going to be really good. and it was! just perfect reforms and only a few surfers out.

canoes was good too. waves all over waikiki.

even the outside was breaking. seen Tommy Chung Ming ride this wave for over 2 minutes. from the outside all the way to the beach.

inside queens is my favorite when the waves are big. it’s too rough for the long boarders so if you can duck dive a hundred waves and catch one, you are in paradise. just like this guy.

so cool to see tourists getting up early in the morning to enjoy the beach while it’s still uncrowded.

i was standing on the wall and this couple came up to me and asked to take a photo. they said they saw me on tv in japan. good thing i wasn’t doing anything bad. haha.

when i went to the philippines a couple of years ago, i borrowed a tube and floated around in the shore break. i must have looked like this. haha.

then it was surf time. picked up Murasaki-san and took her surfing for her first time. omg, she did awesome! another perfect day to learn how to surf. then it was poke and shave ice. great job Murasaki-san!

then i jumped on the boat for an afternoon surf. passed by bowls and it was pretty dam good!

photos coming tomorrow morning. too tired to do anything else tonight as it’s approaching my bedtime. it’s only 8:15pm and i can’t keep my eyes open.
tomorrow more waves and more beautiful weather. have a big day coming so better get some rest. good night.

Afternoon session!

france is super pissed at Uber now. so pissed that they are making it hard to become an Uber driver. for those of you who don’t know what Uber is, it’s a social media transportation network. much cheaper than a taxi and anybody can use their own car and become an Uber driver. Uber is Made in the USA, San Francisco to be exact.

in france, it’s “Uber Go Home.”

or “Uber Let’s Fight.” french taxi drivers don’t like when an american company comes to france and takes their jobs away. this is sending a very strong statement.

Yoshiko-san has only been surfing for 2 years. she is hooked on surfing and goes every single weekend in japan. taught her how to turn yesterday and now she’ll be turning all over japan! super energetic and super fun surfer girl!

thank you Yoshiko-san for the awesome morning session! enjoy hawaii and hope to surf with you again!

OMG, i dropped my camera again yesterday. waves were big, lots of white wash, strong current, so thought i was going to lose it again. luckily i found it! omg, i’m either getting careless, or the camera is getting slippery. haha.

this was my expression when i found it! so happy, and so thankful. a very close call! haha.