before we paddled out, i told Ushijima-san that he’s going to score! everybody here in hawaii is totally surfed out so he came at the perfect time.
the waves were super glassy and perfect. rights and lefts all morning long. look how beautiful this wave is! and nobody around!!! nice wave Ushijima-san!
super good surfing and super good wave.
i watched and watched Ushijima-san catch so many waves. i kept on yelling “GO!” and he would go.
this is total score!
and i was super happy to be surfing in such a peaceful place. no stress, no problems, and no traffic.
great surfing Ushijima-san. and want to say hello to all my surfer friends in Toyama! hope to surf your secret spots again soon!
the day is finally coming! tomorrow night to be exact. the waikiki shell at 5:30pm! Christopher Cross, Little River Band, and Kalapana! OMG, it’s going to be cool, mellow, and old school. see you there.
