Reward!

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i check my mailbox and get a letter from a stranger? i open it, look inside, and find a note and $5. who and what is this???
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then i remember!!! i found this guys license floating in the ocean and sent it back to him in washington. i guess he got my name and address from the return address because he sent me a very thoughtful letter. at the end, it says: P.S. Enjoy a “Cool” beverage! thank you sir! i will go buy me an ice cold beer with the money. i really appreciate it!
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well, another picture perfect day today. blue sky and white clouds. lovely.
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went surfing with Ushijima-san from Toyama. super good surfer and super cool guy. can you believe he caught 40 waves today? just wave after wave after wave. it was awesome! see you tomorrow early morning again Ushijima-san. let’s catch 40 more!
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diamond head looked fun too but ala moana was way better. better winds and better conditions. but even thought diamond head is a little windier, it’s still a beautiful wave.
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omg, can’t wait to eat these!!!
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custard pie from Toyama. thank you Ushijima-san!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide