still can’t believe how much energy Michi-san had. she only surfed 5x before and had the energy of a pro surfer. just kept on paddling back out after each long ride. i was wondering when she was going to get tired but never did. amazing energy and determination.

it was Michi-san’s first time paddling into waves on her own. and when she got up, she turned on every wave. perfect surfing Michi-san!

been seen some surfer amasan’s lurking around kaisers. here’s Reid looking for abalone?

Ren looking for lobsters?

it’s funny how women are always the best at finding things. Yuko-chan with the best find of the day. a $80 fin.

see this kaisers local getting some good waves all the time. don’t know his name but we call each other “what’s up.”

Chifumi-san on a super good rock piles left!

Troy in the soupy tube at bowls.

and yes, i had enough sashimi for a year. i don’t want to see any maguro for a while. haha.
by the time you’re reading this, i should either be on an airplane, or should be home sleeping. going to try and not get my hopes too high because the flights are pretty much sold out. if i make it, i’ll be eating good food with friends in 10 hours. if i don’t, i’ll go dawn patrol tomorrow morning at bowls. either way, it’s all good!

Wow. Many many people!

hey Abe-san, great surfing yesterday! seen some nice bottom turns and long rides!

perfect hawaiian surfing style. wish you a safe return to Ishinomaki. and hope to see you soon again!

We Are One!

the waves were super small but if you know how to tuck yourself into a miniature barrel, you will get the smallest barrel of your life. but hey, it all feels the same!

glad to see Koki-san surfing so good. good chef, good person, good Koki-san!

went to get my international drivers license yesterday. pay $15 and it’s done in 5 minutes.