the most anticipated heat of the morning was John John Florence vs. Bruce Irons. that was the hype starting from yesterday but the commentators left out Seth Moniz. yes, John John and Bruce have their rivalry and are the most famous pipeline surfers in the world, but Seth was in that heat too. the kid? the underdog? the forgotten? yeah, while the whole world was focusing on John John and Bruce, i was focusing on Seth all the way!

then Seth draws first blood. gets the big backdoor gem.

pulls in, gets barreled, and makes it. all of a sudden, the kids in the lead.

half way through the heat, Seth was leading with John John in 2nd, and Bruce in 4th. i was screaming!

Tony and my sister were on the beach stressing out! with 1 minute left, Bruce was in 2nd and Seth was on the verge of getting eliminated. then Seth got another good wave and got back to 2nd place.

John John ended up winning the heat, Seth got 2nd so they both advanced. after the heat, the commentators asked winner John John about his rival with Bruce. then John John said “Seth too is scary out there.” meaning, Seth has the potential to beat anybody at anytime. that’s the level of his surfing these days.

then the talk of the day was Shun’s amazing wave yesterday. he even make the world wide website for volcom with this amazing barrel shot.
it’s unbelievable how these 2 kids are shining big time. when they were 10 years old surfing waikiki together, i knew that sometime this day would come. and yes, it has come! congratulations boys!

gosh, ever since i got back from japan, it’s been like summer here in hawaii. super blue sky, warm weather, warm water, and perfect waves. been exercising, been surfing, been diving, been working, been reading books, been doing yoga, and been busy having fun. now i know why millions of millions people come to hawaii for a vacation. it’s a vacation here everyday!

do you know how you can spot a surfer? just look at their ankles. if you see white to dark tan on both ankles, it’s from socks. if you see white to dark tan on one leg, it’s a surfer. on the right, it’s regular. on the left, it’s goofy. pretty interesting yeah? that’s how i can spot a surfer even in a big city like tokyo.

when you love something, take care of her. i took the truck to my friends house for the best cleaning. thank you Reid for the awesome polish and making the truck look like brand new again. gosh, it feels good driving a clean truck! i hope it doesn’t rain forever. haha.

Matsushita-san surfed for his first time and did awesome! first wave, stood up!

perfect wave, perfect balance, perfect style, perfect happiness. keep on surfing…

Heat 1 and 2 of morning. Start 8am. Don’t miss it!
http://www.volcompipepro.com/
Good morning 6:15am.
North shore 3-5′ and clean.
South shore knee high and clean.
Winds North/West this morning changing to East later.
Clouds becoming sunny.
Have a great super bowl sunday!