i had an awesome time with Yumi-chan today. we haven’t surfed together in a while so i wasn’t sure how she would do. on top of that, the waves were pretty big for her today. the biggest she’s ever surfed. i didn’t tell her that until we came in. haha. but from the first wave to last, she surfed perfectly!

but next time i see her, i’m going to scold her for standing on the reef! busted girl! haha.

thank you Yumi-chan for the wonderful day of surfing! keep on surfing and keep on hawaii!

i had a great time too. the waves were super fun for long boarding. feeling so good riding a swell to myself. no traffic, no people, and no noise. just me and the ocean feeling so content.

after we came in, it got so crowded all of a sudden. and super windy and choppy. perfect timing again!
last, here is a quote from the Duke. a quote that is in the history books of surfing. a quote that has a different meaning to everybody. but to me, this is an awesome quote most watermen can relate to.
“Out of water, I am nothing.” Duke Kahanamoku

Yes, Longboard day! So fun!

why is everything in hawaii 33% priced higher than the mainland? it’s because we live on an island and everything has to get shipped or flown here. i was talking to one of my intelligent friends in the water the other day. he told me that one day something terrible will happen here. he said so terrible that we won’t be able to get food and supplies to our island. then our own people will start killing each other to survive. i even have a friend that built his house like a military bunker and has stocked up food and supplies to last for years. he also has enough guns to protect everything he owns. talking to friends like this scares me a little. it makes me think “what if?” then once i catch a wave, i forget everything they said.

somebody once asked me “why aren’t there any coconuts on the coconut trees?” the answer is: each coconut tree is owned by someone. the coconut trees at ala moana shopping center are owned by ala moana shopping center. the coconut trees on peoples properties are owned by the property owners. the coconut trees at the parks are owned by the city and county of honolulu. each coconut tree is a liability. if one coconut falls off the tree and hits somebody, there is a high probability of somebody getting seriously hurt, or even dying. and there is even a higher probability of a multi million dollar lawsuit. so that’s the answer: no coconuts on the coconut trees because of liability and lawsuits.
if you want a fresh coconut, go to the swap meet and expect to pay $6 for one.