gosh, i just love taking kids surfing for the first time in their life. i know that the first time is the most important because they will either love it, or hate it. and i’ll do anything i can to make them love it. the first initial take off is classic because a little kids face don’t lie. look how nervous 12 year old Renta-kun is when he starts to ride his first ever wave.

then once he gets going, the feeling is just too hard to explain. much better than any ride at disneyland. look at his face. so stoked!

then as he’s about to stand up on his own, i’m sure he is thinking to himself “wow, this is fun!”

Renta-kun’s first surf and did it very well. after i took him in, he was waiting on the beach for me and said he wanted to surf again. two sessions for this cool kid!

a smile that i love to see. good job Renta-kun!

then it was Saori-san’s turn. second time surfing and rode it perfectly.

then Oshima-san wanted to surf a big wave so i took him to the outside. some sets were head high but he wanted to try. so stoked watching him ride some super clean big waves.

such a funny and cool guy. thank you Oshima-san. glad you are hooked on surfing! see you again next week for some big waves again!

Nice Wipeout Renta-kun!
Good morning 6am.
South shore chest high and morning sickness.
Diamond Head windy side shore.
Waikiki clean off shore.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Rainy morning becoming sunny this afternoon.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

gosh, i had another amazing day with the wonderful Oshima-san family!!! surfed awesome waves, ate awesome food, and had an awesome time. such a kind and happy family!

i woke up at 6am this morning and the headline news read:
Missing SUP Paddler Off Waikiki. i told myself “omg, not another one???” yesterday at 4pm, a tourist rented a SUP board in waikiki and paddled out. he didn’t come back at sunset time to bring the board back so they called the search and rescue. they searched all over last night and couldn’t find him. so this morning when i woke up, he was still missing. i thought to myself “should i go out and look for this guy? i kind of knew where he would be because of the winds yesterday. i was thinking 14 hours had passed so he must be around barbers point. and once he passes there, he’s gone forever. 1 hour later, luckily he was found by the coast guard. this tourist from oregon is one lucky man.

the coast guard found him by ewa beach which is way past the airport. pulled him out of the water, took him to the hospital, and gave him lots of water. i’m sure he had a lot of time to think about his life last night.

ok people. this is a SUP. sitting on the beach at waikiki, it looks way too tempting. pay $30 and paddle this beautiful board into the beautiful ocean. the hidden danger is once you pass a certain point off shore, the wind will take you out to sea and you will never make it back in. going out is so easy as the wind will blow you out and you will think you are in great condition. BUT, try to turn around and you won’t make it back. i’ve seen it over and over, rescued so many people, and will still see it again and again. there are only 2 lifeguard towers in waikiki looking after thousands of people. add in the evening sunshine glare, it’s almost impossible to see farther than the waves. lifeguards finish work before dark so you’re on your own. my advise has always been: don’t even try it. hire a proper guide if you want to venture out in the ocean. the ocean is the ocean and it can change in minutes. this man was lucky he didn’t get blown past barbers point. this man is lucky hawaii has the best search and rescue in the world. and this man better thank god he was given another chance to live. oh, and this man better thank the tax payers of hawaii because a search and rescue operation like this costs over $100,000.
please surf and paddle safe.