watching the kids improve session by session is a treat. i give a little advice and let the kids just take it from there. if they want it, they can get it. simple. this little surfer girl is finally riding the wave in the right place.

and watching this kid Aoi surfing every single day just trying and trying to get better is cool. it’s fun just watching him improve wave by wave. i always check to see if he’s on the right equipment for his level of surfing and try to help him out as much as i can.

last night i dig under my house and look for something that would suit him. i find Seth’s magic board he rode when he was Aoi’s age. i clean it up, take it to the beach, and let Aoi try it. from the first wave i watched him ride, i knew it was magic.

hey Aoi, i hope you like your new board. just to let you know that Seth won major contests on that very same board. take care of it and you will soon be surfing like Seth. see you in the water!

and speaking of Seth Moniz, a huge interview just came out on surfline. i read it, looked at the photos, and had tears in my eyes. my little nephew is growing up. omg!

and of all the amazing surfing photos in the interview, this one was my favorite. the Moniz kids are like my own kids. i watched them grow up all these wonderful years and had the most amazing experiences with all of them. and now to see them shining in the spotlight, it makes me a very proud uncle. ahhhh, tears coming again. better go.
CLICK HERE FOR SETH MONIZ INTERVIEW ON SURFLINE!

My new love: Nectar IPA, India Pale Ale. 6.7% Alcohol. So good!
Good morning 6am.
Small waves today.
Waist high at Ala Moana. Clean.
Chest high at Diamond Head. Windy.
Waikiki knee high and clean.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm summer day.
Surfing all day.
See you in the water!

omg, had a super fun time this morning with Kishi-san and his cute kid Yugo-kun. last year was his first time surfing at a tender age of 6 years old. this year at 7, he was so excited to get his first wave!

we kept riding and riding so many good waves.

i started surfing at this age the same exact way. a memory i remember clearly 40 years later.

Kishi-san caught some really nice waves too. super good balance and super good surfing.

then Yugo-kun says “i want to surf by myself.” really???? so i give him his own board, i explain to him what to do, and he had so much determination as we waited for a wave.

first ride perfect! omg, this kid is so brave!!!! he was so cute and everybody told me after “what a brave kid!” gosh, this photo is priceless!

i still had the camera rolling when he finished the wave. i truly believe that surfing brings out a pure smile and this is the perfect example of that. good job Yugo-kun! you’re a very brave kid!

and of course, i had to congratulate this young kid for doing such a great job today!

then we came back to the beach and enjoyed the perfect weather in hawaii.

a kid just being a kid. haha.

then us hungry surfers went to eat pho. same place as last year because Yugo-kun loved it!

then i went to take the high school kids out for an afternoon session. another 5 hour surf day and i’m totally satisfied again! same thing tomorrow so better get going to sleep. goodnight from hawaii!