OMG! Run!!!
Good morning 6am.
Super clean waist high waves at Ala Moana.
Chest high at Diamond Head and perfect.
No wind so perfect conditions.
Super sunny and very warm day.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

wow, another awesome day in the ocean. started off in the morning with these 3 amazing surfers from Sendai. Hayato-san, Tanaka-san, and Kiyomi-san. all great surfers and all having a good time in hawaii. photos downloading now.

than afternoon with Nanami-san. my goal on this trip is to get her surfing by herself. today was a huge step and she’s figuring out the ocean. super strong woman with incredible determination. and when she gets a good one, she comes back out super stoked!

perfect surfing today Nanami-san! have a great week and see you again after this hurricane passes by.

Gavin did a great job too. rode wave after wave perfectly. super cool kid with a super cool mom.

thank you Nanami-san for the gourmet dips. can’t wait to eat it soon!

gosh, it’s been a while since i got a day off to go play in the ocean. i’m craving to go diving! need some fresh fish soon!

stoked! the Banyaks trip is going to be on Hawaii Skin Diver TV! got some amazing footage by Todaheli and the show is going to be awesome. surf/dive/travel/friends/heli/memories. don’t miss it tomorrow night.

speaking of the Banyaks. i’m a very curious traveler. whenever i get a chance to go to an island and explore, i go. i caught a wave and paddled to the beach. i started looking for shells and looking around. all of a sudden, i hear something coming towards me from the jungle. OMG! a big black dog charging me! mouth open, super pissed off, and was about to attack me. i put my surfboard between him and me. he was trying to bite my surfboard! omg! so i almost had a panic attack!!! i walked backwards back into the water, and ran on the reef back to the boat. never again will i go venturing out on an island because dogs terrify me. i think i’m traumatized for life.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tTFQDNhvK8[/youtube]

Makana bottom turn at Bowls today. Good waves, good vibe, good day!
6 hours of surfing!