had a great time surfing with Sou-san this morning. super cool surfer from Yokohama.

was stoked to see him riding super long waves. and was also stoked to hear that he’s surfed in the Maldives too.

peace Sou-san. thank you for the awesome surf session!

if i have my camera out and somebody rides past me, i usually take a photo. so i took this photo because i thought it was so beautiful!

and of course, i have to get my fair share too. just riding a wave makes me so happy!

thank you Kesuke family for the perfect soup for my raw egg over my rice breakfast.

and thank you Atsuko-san for the sweet ume that will go good in my rice balls.

then surfed afternoon with Nanami-san so total 5 hours in the water today. waves absolutely perfect! then came home, sat the kid down, and talked about our awesome day. he told me he had fun hanging out at my house playing games. i was happy to come home and see him.

after 1 week of searching for these two 14 year old boys off florida, the coast guard called off their search. the parents are getting attacked by social media for letting them go out into the ocean alone. come to find out, they were supposed to only stay in the lake. but boys will be boys. when i first got my drivers license and car at 15 years old, my mom told me not to leave hawaii kai. first day, i picked up my friends and drove to the north shore. i ended up crashing into the guard rail going 70mph on the way home on the freeway. luckily nobody go hurt. like i said, boys will be boys. we are just born to be wild. as for the 2 missing kids, i just hope they drifted to some island far away and will be rescued soon. it’s so sad because it could have been anyones kids.

had an awesome afternoon session yesterday with the surfers from Colorado. want to welcome Liam, Nanami-san, and Gavin back to paradise! get ready for some boot camp surf lessons!

Gavin on his first wave. good to see he hasn’t forgotten a thing.

Liam went on some pretty big ones. he looked super stoked on the waves!

and mother Nanami-san, the most energetic of the three. you can call her “Supermom!” hope your arms are rested and see you this afternoon for yet another surf boot camp lesson!

gosh, it’s only been a week since i was surfing in the middle of typhoon 12. totally perfect sandbar river mouth setups. i wait all year for days like this so when it finally comes, you can imagine how excited and happy i am. check out this empty left barrel that Matchi and I had to ourselves. a session i will never forget.

in order for the waves to get like this, it has to rain hard for a month, a typhoon has to send the right swells from the perfect direction, the wind has to be off shore, the river can’t be flowing too much, and you have to be super dam lucky. when all this happens, you will have the surf session of your life.

and when you can surf it with only a couple of friend out, that makes it even more special. Matchi going to get barreled.
still have so many photos i took in japan. haven’t had the time to even upload them to my computer. time is flying but when i can see these photos and go back only a week in a time capsule, i can relive each and ever moment again. can’t wait to do it again as typhoon 13 is heading that way right now.

New hurricane!!!