super stoked to surf rock piles yesterday on a sunday so empty. just a couple kids and us. Takei-san caught a lot of waves. in fact, way more than me.

look how beautiful the water and reef was!

and to surf into Diamond Head is cool! such an amazing view.

blue sky, emerald water, and warm sun. perfect surfing Takei-san!

duck dive in paradise.

awesome day Takei-san. keep on surfing and see you again next year!

surfers need sex. i mean, surfers need wax. the first bar of wax i bought back in 1980 was a bar of coconut scent sex wax. so getting back on the sex wax bars in 2015 (35 years later) makes me relive every sex wax moment.

who ever invented this wax was a genius! the best for your stick!

and now in recyclable packaging makes it even more environmental friendly. thank you Maneuver Line for the sexy bars of wax! can’t wait to wax my stick!

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDi9uFcD7XI#t=213[/youtube]
REALLY????
Good morning 5:45am.
Small surf today.
Knee/waist high at Ala Moana. Clean.
Waikiki flat.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Super sunny and very warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

woke up this morning and seen Hurricane Guillermo heading right our way! expect crazy winds and heavy rain on thursday. hopefully i don’t have to work on that day.

had a super surf day with Takei-san. super cool guy who’s friends with Ushikoshi’s group “the Dumpers.” we surfed for 5.5 hours in the perfect day with absolutely no clouds blocking the sun. but the end of the day, we were super sunburnt.

after our morning session, we were super hungry so it was prime rib time.

we ate one each! super juicy and super tender. oh, and super cheap.

there is nowhere else on this island or maybe in this world you can find a fine thick juicy piece of meat like this for this price. we both gained some weight today.

then went to wash our steak down with Waiola Shave Ice. shave ice cup with azuki beans and ice cream. gained a few more pounds.

at first, Takei-san didn’t want to eat shave ice because he only tried the shave ice from the famous place on the north shore and didn’t like it. i told him, “no, this place is different. Waiola is the best.” after he took his first bite, he agreed.

then we went to surf for a couple more hours. super fun waves all day!

biggest news today was Hiroto Ohhara’s big win at the U.S Open. the first time a japanese has ever won a major event in the history of surfing. stoked for this kid, and stoked for japan!

AT&T just got caught ripping off their own customers. purposely slowing down the data for their loyal customers. i was a loyal customer and once i heard this, i quit. it hurts to find out you’ve been getting ripped off by your cell phone carrier for 10 years. and they didn’t even have the balls to say sorry.

went to throw football with the kid last night. i couldn’t believe how strong his arm was! he would throw a perfect spiral football right to my chest. the next Marcus Mariota?

is this real or fake?
anyway, surfed all day today and will do tomorrow too. have a beautiful evening and good night. it’s not even 8pm but i’m going to sleep. going to sleep with a smile. goodnight.