yesterday was amazing! i saw dark clouds and rain!!! i was so happy to see our island getting watered! it’s been over 2 months since it rained. i love how nature is so unpredictable!

and so what if it rains? the waves are still good! in fact, great! super glassy conditions and the swell continues. still some super nice sets for everyone!

i can’t believe how many good waves Ushijima-san caught. just glassy perfect wave after wave riding it for super long. score!

and Ushijima-san got a super good long left too. i seen him with the big smile paddling out so i knew it was good.

Reid off the lip.

and stoked to see Reid’s son Ren surfing super good. started off on the long board and now officially on a short board. this kids only going to get better and better and stoker and stoker. sick bottom turn!

and surprise surprise surprise! i was in the parking lot in the morning and seen a black rent a car drive past me. i could have sworn i seen somebody i knew. five minutes later, Dove Wetsuits boss Inomata-san comes running up to me!!! OMG! “what are you doing here? why didn’t you tell me you’re coming to hawaii???” he said “why? you do the same thing in japan.” haha. true that! i thought that was pretty funny! sorry for always surprising my friends. but it was super nice to see Inomata-san in hawaii, and more super nice to surf with him. Keep Warm, Keep Happy, Keep Dove.

Rain or Shine. It’s ON!
Good morning 7am.
Ala Moana waist high with little bigger sets. Clean waves, dirty water.
Diamond Head chest high and clean.
Light winds so good morning conditions.
Rain, clouds, dark, lovely.
Have a wet wonderful day!

another fun day surfing and another 40 waves ridden. Ushijima-san’s going back to japan tomorrow with 80 waves ridden in the past 2 days. and the great thing is he’s going back right into a typhoon swell. super lucky timing for this hard core surfer! keep on surfing Ushijima-san!

we had a poke bowl and shave ice for lunch. gosh, great for my 20 minute afternoon nap.

want to thank Uchiyama-san for sending me the photos of the typhoon swell starting in Chigasaki. gosh, i remember standing on this very overpass 23 years ago checking the waves every single day. brings back my youthful japan sweet memories.

spent time with my grandnephew yesterday watching Elmo and eating pistachio nuts. i taught him how to open the pistachio nuts and he was so happy!

super stoked to see Matsu so successful in photography. i’d say he’s pretty international and pretty famous in what he does. great work Shinsuke Matsukawa!

showing the beautiful japanese culture through the lens.

gosh, makes me want to go back to japan!
ok, i’m not surprised, but Hawaii is worst city in U.S. to make a living. yes, most expensive, most expensive, and most expensive. everything costs more to buy, and the average working persons salary is 1/3 lower than others on the mainland USA. the homeless problem is growing each year just as fast as the high rise luxury condos going up. it’s just going to get more expensive with less paying jobs so better start saving your money if you want to continue living here. just look at the differences in prices compared to Texas.