omg, today was another beautiful long day. i knew it was going to be action packed so i took my go pro. but when i turned it on, the battery was dead. the only thing i don’t like about the go pro is the on/off button is sensitive so sometimes it turns on when it’s in your pocket. then it doesn’t shut off automatically so the battery just dies. it happened 3x already and i’m super bummed for the 3rd time because today i could have got some amazing photos.

we had an awesome 3.5 hour session this morning. went out at sunrise and surfed so many waves. just wave after wave and it was super nice and pretty empty. then we went to eat pho to fill up our hungry stomachs. then malasadas after.

the boys arms couldn’t paddle much longer after all the surfing we’ve been doing so we went to use our legs and lungs to go free diving. the conditions were perfect and the water was super clean.

Seigo-san’s first fish!!! we dove about 40′ or 13 meters and Seigo-san could go all the way to the bottom. i was pretty impressed with his skill level on his first spearfishing experience. next time i go to wakayama, we’re going to go free dive and eat free fish!

i managed to get 2 fish today. one for me, and one for a friend. that’s all we need.
thank you Seigo-san and Yuki-san for the wonderful past 3 days. i had a great time and great experiences. hope you have a great trip back to wakayama and i’ll see you either in the ocean, or at marutaya. miss your ramen!

2 days ago a whale watching catamaran made a pretty bad choice. high surf advisory, building swell, onshore winds? that’s crazy to even try to go out! anyway, the catamaran went out anyway on the way in to haleiwa harbor, a freak set broke in the channel and hit 5 of the 15 passengers into the ocean. including a pregnant woman. luckily the lifeguards saw everything and saved everybody. it could have been very ugly.

see the tourists in the ocean? they’re lucky another freak set didn’t break on their heads. 18′ faces that day and just not a good day to go out on a whale watching tour. very bad call.

the catamaran had to get towed to makaha on the west side. a lot of expensive damage had been done but luckily nobody died.

i’m sure these tourists have a great story to take back home with them. and i’m sure nobody would believe. and i’m sure a lot of hungry lawyers are looking at this right now thinking “lawsuit!”

this very same day, the south shore was the place to be. beautiful whales, and beautiful turtles. Seigo-san and Yuki-san the male mermaids. haha.

just watching turtles swim is so relaxing to the mind. i can’t believe i use to eat them when i was a kid.

the water and weather couldn’t have been any better. so hard to believe that a 50 minute drive away was like a stormy typhoon day.

was pretty impressed on Seigo-san’s free diving skills. this is cool!

see the turtle swimming towards Mayuki? while the 2 boys were in the ocean, i wanted to jump in too. so i did. if the news cameras were around, i would be filmed and be called a very bad captain. it’s never a good idea to leave a boat with nobody in floating in the ocean. i do this all the time so i’m getting use to it. but on one occasion, the wind picked up one way, and the current picked up the other way. i almost never made it back to the boat. if that happened, we would be in big trouble.

Oh Deer!
Good morning 6am.
North shores 1-2′ and clean.
Big North/West swell starting Thursday night.
South shore knee/waist high and clean.
No wind so clean perfect conditions.
Super sunny and very warm.
Surfing all day.
Have a wonderful day!