one of the last bookstores is in ala moana shopping center. i went there to research things about surfing, business, and life. a great place to gather as much information as you desire.

bought the new Surfer’s Journal because there were 2 articles that caught my attention.

the first one was about my boy Mega! labeled the high priest of ululate because he was born into taking over the highest honor of the spiritual temple that sits on the top of Uluwatu. but before taking that ultimate task, Mega started surfing and is surfing on top of the world right now winning contest after contest. being labeled one of the best surfers to surf Uluwatu, Padang Padang, Bingin, and Dreamland. i’m pretty sure the spirits and gods are watching out for this boy surfing their sacred ocean.

in the article, Mega spoke about his first ever trip out of bali. it was to Hawaii when he was 14 years old. he stayed at my house on that trip. i remember going to pick him up from the airport but he didn’t come out for hours. then i get a call from a customs official “excuse me, do you know this kid named Mega Semadhi?” i said “yes, what happened?” the official said “we opened his suitcase and found 20 packs of chicken flavored instant noodles. you can’t bring chicken products into the united states.” i started laughing and said “this kid don’t have money so he brought his lunch with him. he’s so pure and innocent so please let him go.” five minutes later, Mega came out, got in my car, and i said “welcome to hawaii!” haha.

i’d go diving, bring home fish, and Mega would eat everything off the bone. he would even go outside and eat some of the leaves off trees. he was so pure and everything was new to him. gosh, i wish i had a video camera back then. anyway, i’m very proud of this kid. i still see him around and he always comes up and gives me a hug. someday, i’ll be going to the temple at Uluwatu and will be bowing to this boy that is on his way to being a god.

the next article that caught my eye was “Concrete Islands of the Salaryman.” right there, i knew it was about japan.

it started off “Ninety-nine percent of Japanese surfers never see perfect waves…” i think that is so true because Ninety-nine percent of Japanese surfers only surf close out beach breaks. little do most know, there are gems right around the corner.

gems like this that are now exposed, thanks to Surfer’s Journal. a lot of happy people, but i know a lot of locals that aren’t going to be too happy.

Foot long sandwich? I don’t think so.
Good morning 6am.
Chest high sets at Ala Moana. Clean.
Shoulder high at Diamond Head.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Super sunny and warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

so happy to see all the surf boys still the best of friends. from kid time till now, stronger than ever. fierce competitors in the water, but the best of friends out. this group is the next generation of the “hawaiian storm!” and always good to go by my sisters house because i actually use to live there with my grandpa. just him and i as he was helping me through college. also childhood memories of fishing in the canal, eating natto/rice, miso soup, and my grandma’s famous pumpkin pie. everywhere in that house, the memories keep on popping up and i love them all.

Tony introduced me to Ipa Beer last night. super good! i drank 2 and was feeling very happy!

my beautiful niece and my beautiful grand nephew. can’t wait to take this kid surfing again.

and a beautiful dessert after a beautiful dinner!

my 2 nephews. cool hawaiian boys!

woke up this morning and ate the most amazing power breakfast. starting off with fresh blueberries, banana, and strawberries in a bowl.

covered with low fat yogurt, chia seeds, granola, and sweet honey. been eating this every morning and feeling super energetic and healthy when i leave my house for a long day.

my friend Keola called me up the other day. he told me he’s going to move to Osaka. so he brought his brother in law Kitamura-san for a surf session. found out Kitamura-san is good friends with Morigen-san from kyoto. Morigen-san is a guy i respect, and now i have a cool new friend. perfect example of the cool surfing world i live in. and next time i’m in osaka, i have a hawaiian brother i can hang out with. going to take him surfing with me and spread the aloha! and eat takoyaki and ramen! haha. thanks boys for the wonderful blue morning!