when tahiti gets a big south swell, it takes about 5 days to arrive here in hawaii. usually half the size at most, but too hard and too far to predict. all we know is a south swell is coming and everybody is excited!

typhoons have been sending swell to japan too! super good secret left point! thank you Toda-san and Takami-san for the photo. hope to see you guys soon!

every time i go to a third world county, i always want to check out the night market. so cheap and so interesting. the only thing i usually end up buying is fresh fruits. everything else is fake. haha.

night market in Antigua.

and when a building impresses me, i stop and take a photo. this one was so beautiful.

and i love this little car. wish i had one in hawaii!

don’t walk down the side streets in the dark. even in the day looks scary. there are steel bars around every single window and door. why? because people break in all the time!

the start of a 9.5 hour bus ride. everybody smiling as we left, but nobody was smiling after 9 hours of our ride from hell. our drunk bus driver, no toilet stops, and almost driving off the cliffs many of times. never again for me. but this group of backpackers from australia, israel, denmark, holland, and other places in this wonderful world.

check out the new TSSC stickers! love it!

Immigrant War!
Good morning 6am.
Chest high surf and coming up at Ala Moana. Very clean and very slow.
30 surfers at Bowls.
Diamond Head head high and clean.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Super sunny and super warm.
Perfect surfing day.
See you in the water.

OMG, the waves have been so tiny recently. but i wanted to surf so bad so i paddled out this evening to bowls at 5pm. super tiny but still fun. then right at sunset time, the swell arrived and there were solid chest high perfect waves coming in! only 3 guys out, super orange sunset, and perfect long bowls lefts. i caught 8 waves in 1 hour and was by far my best session in a while. paddled in at dark to the lights of waikiki. score!!!! swells is here to expect bigger waves and thousands of surfers tomorrow. see you out there!

want to thank Yumi-chan for the japanese tea. i just love the presentation in everything the japanese package.

also want to thank Tajima-san for the japanese KitKat. all are in my stomach already. haha.

still don’t know what Brandon did with the pig. hope he didn’t bbq him already.

been hanging out with Kimura-san and Hayato. two cool surfers and two very important people in my life. throughout all these years, we have thousands of precious memories, and millions more to come.

100′ deep blue water with turtles everywhere. turtles that will swim right up to you and look you in the eye. nature at it’s finest.

always stoked to hang around Kimura-san. we have so much fun teasing each other. haha.

and nobody beats his facial expressions. pure stoke!

caught lots of fish yesterday. these are called “taape” and is an invasive species. these blue-lined snapper were released in the 1950’s in hawaii waters. turned out they were eating the eggs of many prized fish. now we don’t want them but it’s too late there are thousands of them everywhere. so the more out of the water is better for us. and also great eating fish!

stoked to see Keith scoring epic waves off the last 2 typhoons in taiwan. can’t wait to go back there again for the great surf and delicious food.