so disturbing to see the news about this poor guy getting shot in the back. most people in america are pretty pissed off. the guy who took this video is a hero because if he didn’t, this policeman would be working on the streets shooting more people in the back. now he’s in jail where he belongs. thank goodness.

spent the day out in the ocean yesterday pretty much all day long. it’s crazy how it makes me feel so good. working, surfing, diving, and having fun with friends.

surfed another evening session at the secret spot. only one other guy out enjoying the long rides. surfed with my friend Yoshi from Japan. super stoked to see him surfing so good. enjoyed a few beers and poke before calling it a night.

since i got back to hawaii, every day has been picture perfect from morning till night. that’s why people call hawaii “paradise!”

the first time i took a boat out at night 15 years ago, it was pretty scary. now, it’s not scary anymore, it’s freaking amazing! makes me appreciate the day much much more.

look what i seen at the shelf at the liquor store. a new bottle of Jack Daniel’s FIRE! i’m going to try some next weekend.

Ice Cold Suntan
Good morning 5:50am.
Ala Moana chest high sets and clean.
Waikiki waist high and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and side winds.
Sunny warm day.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

tried a different vietnamese restaurant yesterday because i wanted something new. ordered the combination pho and it turned out to be the best pho i’ve ever eaten! i don’t know what the place is called but it’s on king street.

just another guy having a great time in nature. i was watching him reel in a pretty big fish. good to see people catching dinner the old fashion way.

if you live in hawaii, you are very lucky! japan tickets are on sale! from last years over $1000 price, to this years $488. round trip to japan for under $500? gosh, that reminds me of the good old days 20 years ago! and now that the dollar is strong, this would be the ideal time to plan that dream trip to japan.

took the girls out surfing today because i promised them. and no, girls don’t forget promises.

just 2 best friends enjoying the ocean on such a beautiful day. i paddled up to surf with them and they looked at me and had the expression like “hey, what are you doing here? we don’t need you anymore. wait on the boat.” haha. so i waited on the boat.
water temperature went up a couple of degrees to 77 now. weather is warm, wind is cool, and the waves are super fun. i’ve been spending more time in the ocean than on land. loving every minute of it!