Braveheart Kid

Screen Shot 2015-08-02 at 2.58.38 PM
omg, had a super fun time this morning with Kishi-san and his cute kid Yugo-kun. last year was his first time surfing at a tender age of 6 years old. this year at 7, he was so excited to get his first wave!
Screen Shot 2015-08-02 at 2.55.36 PM
we kept riding and riding so many good waves.
Screen Shot 2015-08-02 at 2.59.16 PM
i started surfing at this age the same exact way. a memory i remember clearly 40 years later.
Screen Shot 2015-08-02 at 2.59.50 PM
Kishi-san caught some really nice waves too. super good balance and super good surfing.
Screen Shot 2015-08-02 at 2.57.09 PM
then Yugo-kun says “i want to surf by myself.” really???? so i give him his own board, i explain to him what to do, and he had so much determination as we waited for a wave.
Screen Shot 2015-08-02 at 2.56.11 PM
first ride perfect! omg, this kid is so brave!!!! he was so cute and everybody told me after “what a brave kid!” gosh, this photo is priceless!
Screen Shot 2015-08-02 at 2.57.01 PM
i still had the camera rolling when he finished the wave. i truly believe that surfing brings out a pure smile and this is the perfect example of that. good job Yugo-kun! you’re a very brave kid!
Screen Shot 2015-08-02 at 2.57.17 PM
and of course, i had to congratulate this young kid for doing such a great job today!
Screen Shot 2015-08-02 at 3.00.05 PM
then we came back to the beach and enjoyed the perfect weather in hawaii.
Screen Shot 2015-08-02 at 3.00.46 PM
a kid just being a kid. haha.
IMG_8933
then us hungry surfers went to eat pho. same place as last year because Yugo-kun loved it!
Screen Shot 2015-08-02 at 3.02.13 PM
then i went to take the high school kids out for an afternoon session. another 5 hour surf day and i’m totally satisfied again! same thing tomorrow so better get going to sleep. goodnight from hawaii!

OMG! Crazy!

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkT0WkIB8D8[/youtube]

What is Glassy?

Screen Shot 2015-08-01 at 11.45.52 AM
super mom Namami-san yesterday on some beautiful waves! gosh, this woman has a lot of motivation to get good really fast! all she thinks about is surfing! good surfing Nanami-san! blue skies continue.
Screen Shot 2015-08-01 at 11.42.33 AM
look how beautiful the water is! so clean that it looks like you’re surfing right on the reef.
IMG_7232
what is glassy? japan river mouths are glassy. the right river flow, the right wind, and the right swell. the perfect combination for perfect conditions.
IMG_7177
was stoked to see Shintaro-san in shikoku. super cool guy and good surfer.
IMG_7234
Shintaro-san in the most epic conditions you will ever dream of. he was surfing the lefts all by himself.
IMG_7252
nice turn Shintaro-san.
IMG_7206
just looking at any japanese boat fascinates me. so basic and so strong.
IMG_7161
when it rains hard, all kinds of things from the mountains come flying out through the river mouths. don’t be surprised if you’re pulling into a barrel and get hit by a 40′ tree. ouch! not the safest kind of surfing for sure.
IMG_8687
gosh, i miss the 500 yen or $4 lunch sets in shikoku.