wow, another awesome day in the ocean. started off in the morning with these 3 amazing surfers from Sendai. Hayato-san, Tanaka-san, and Kiyomi-san. all great surfers and all having a good time in hawaii. photos downloading now.

than afternoon with Nanami-san. my goal on this trip is to get her surfing by herself. today was a huge step and she’s figuring out the ocean. super strong woman with incredible determination. and when she gets a good one, she comes back out super stoked!

perfect surfing today Nanami-san! have a great week and see you again after this hurricane passes by.

Gavin did a great job too. rode wave after wave perfectly. super cool kid with a super cool mom.

thank you Nanami-san for the gourmet dips. can’t wait to eat it soon!

gosh, it’s been a while since i got a day off to go play in the ocean. i’m craving to go diving! need some fresh fish soon!

stoked! the Banyaks trip is going to be on Hawaii Skin Diver TV! got some amazing footage by Todaheli and the show is going to be awesome. surf/dive/travel/friends/heli/memories. don’t miss it tomorrow night.

speaking of the Banyaks. i’m a very curious traveler. whenever i get a chance to go to an island and explore, i go. i caught a wave and paddled to the beach. i started looking for shells and looking around. all of a sudden, i hear something coming towards me from the jungle. OMG! a big black dog charging me! mouth open, super pissed off, and was about to attack me. i put my surfboard between him and me. he was trying to bite my surfboard! omg! so i almost had a panic attack!!! i walked backwards back into the water, and ran on the reef back to the boat. never again will i go venturing out on an island because dogs terrify me. i think i’m traumatized for life.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tTFQDNhvK8[/youtube]

Makana bottom turn at Bowls today. Good waves, good vibe, good day!
6 hours of surfing!

super stoked to surf rock piles yesterday on a sunday so empty. just a couple kids and us. Takei-san caught a lot of waves. in fact, way more than me.

look how beautiful the water and reef was!

and to surf into Diamond Head is cool! such an amazing view.

blue sky, emerald water, and warm sun. perfect surfing Takei-san!

duck dive in paradise.

awesome day Takei-san. keep on surfing and see you again next year!

surfers need sex. i mean, surfers need wax. the first bar of wax i bought back in 1980 was a bar of coconut scent sex wax. so getting back on the sex wax bars in 2015 (35 years later) makes me relive every sex wax moment.

who ever invented this wax was a genius! the best for your stick!

and now in recyclable packaging makes it even more environmental friendly. thank you Maneuver Line for the sexy bars of wax! can’t wait to wax my stick!