even though i was only gone for 6 days, i really missed hawaii. missed the warm weather, cool trade winds, nice waves, and my lovely job. paddling out is always the best part because i always know what’s going to happen very soon. i’m going to ride a wave!

Yoshida-san never rode a single fin before so i let him use my magic board. a magic board i only let a few ride. it’s almost like letting someone borrow your girlfriend. haha. from his first wave, he was ripping! ripping on my baby.

gosh, the waves were so good all day long yesterday. perfect rights and perfect lefts. perfect for a single fin kind of day. Yoshida-san pulling into a pretty nice barrel looking right at diamond head. beautiful!

i love photos like this. it’s as close to the action you can get. it’s real, it’s fast, and it’s furious.

want to thank Bob-san from Bob’s Surf in Tokushima for introducing Yoshida-san to me. a true surfer, and a true smile. keep on surfing guys!

2 DE MAYO 2015
Good morning 5:45am.
Small south swell continues.
Chest high sets at Ala Moana and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and windy.
Waikiki waist high and clean.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Super sunny and very warm.
Surfing morning, Boxing afternoon.
Have a wonderful day!

today was yet another beautiful day in hawaii. perfect waves and very warm. spent 6 hours surfing and i still wanted more!

Yoshida-san is from tokushima. seen him last month at the TSSC contest and now here in hawaii. his first time surfing in paradise so i took him to the best spot on the island today, bowls. watched him catch some amazing waves. very long and very fast. after 3 hours, we got hungry so came in.

yes, a picture perfect day!

went to BacNam to eat my favorite combination Pho. the best pho on the island.

i always order #61 which is the combination pho. it costs $8.50 and worth every penny.

then we went to go check out diamond head. one of the most amazing views in the world.

then we went for session 2. surfed another 3 hours and added wave after wave to our total wave count. check out Yoshida-san on a big set. i watched him ride a wave for over a minute. i’m guessing the longest wave of his 6 year surfing career. and the cool think about it is that we are going surfing again on sunday! more waves, more smiles, more happiness!

you really have to leave hawaii to fully appreciate hawaii. i’m not sure if there is anyone else on this island that loves hawaii more than i do. it’s paradise right in front of you!
going sleep at 9pm again, surfing all day tomorrow. can’t wait!