ok, part 2 of yesterday. so many things happening, so many things going on, and not enough time to keep up. i picked up Hirano-san yesterday afternoon and we went for a quick surf session. paddled out to bowls but after seeing 40 surfers out, i looked left and seen empty rock piles. only a few surfers and the waves were as perfect as it gets. so we turned left and had the best 1 hour session ever!

it’s the first time i surfed with Hirano-san so i didn’t know what to expect. then i saw him paddle for his first wave, stood up, and surfed like a pro! he was ripping! 35 years of experience under his belt making for perfect rail to rail surfing. we exchanged many waves for an hour, even a few barrels, then it got crowded, and then we went in. couldn’t have timed it any more perfectly.

Hirano-san duck dive in the dark room.

coming from Akita, i’m sure it felt good to take off, go down the line, and do the biggest carving cutback in paradise.

thank you Hirano-san for the wonderful afternoon. see you again this morning and let’s do it all again!

and yes, the water has been so clean this summer! cleaner than usual so even going under the wave feels so good! i love this amazing world!

The Nasty Girl coming to Hawaii!
Janet Jackson: Unbreakable World Tour
Neal S Blaisdell Arena. Honolulu, Hawaii.
Thursday, November 12, 2015.
SOLD OUT! See you there!
Good morning 6am.
New South swell!!!
Head high at Ala Moana!
4′ at Diamond Head.
Little bumpy morning conditions becoming cleaner later.
Clouds, showers, sun, and rainbows.
Super and nice day.
Surfing all day!
See you in the water.

wow! another awesome surfing day in hawaii. such perfect days everyday! was super stoked to surf with Tanisaka-san, Chizuru-san, and Kinuyo-san again. always laughing and always smiling. and of course, always surfing good.

Tanisaka-san was ripping this morning! super good waves and super smooth surfing. this was almost an off the SUP lip!

everybody asks me “where is your favorite place in the world.” and my answer is always “right here in hawaii!” i’ve been to so many places in the world, but hawaii will always be my home. look at this perfect wave as Tanisaka-san, speeds down the line. this is perfection!

when we get out of the water, i see a bag of lipstick, keys, coins, brushes, and all kinds of girl stuff scattered around on the ground right in the back of my truck. come to find out, there was a girl vs. girl fight! omg, i can’t believe i just missed the action by 10 minutes. 5 police cars, 2 women arrested, and lots of drama at the beach.

want to thank Tanisaka-san, Chizuru-san, and Kinuyo-san for a wonderful surfing morning and great pho lunch. enjoy your rest of your stay in hawaii and keep on surfing.

and thank you very much for the wonderful gift from japan!

i’m eating one right now! itadakimasu!

then it was round 2 in the afternoon. another great surfer, another great wave, another great time, and another great session. omg! the south swell is coming up! tomorrow should be head high and building over the weekend. i’m surfing till i can’t surf anymore! good night and see you in the water tomorrow.