omg, had a super fun time this morning with Kishi-san and his cute kid Yugo-kun. last year was his first time surfing at a tender age of 6 years old. this year at 7, he was so excited to get his first wave!

we kept riding and riding so many good waves.

i started surfing at this age the same exact way. a memory i remember clearly 40 years later.

Kishi-san caught some really nice waves too. super good balance and super good surfing.

then Yugo-kun says “i want to surf by myself.” really???? so i give him his own board, i explain to him what to do, and he had so much determination as we waited for a wave.

first ride perfect! omg, this kid is so brave!!!! he was so cute and everybody told me after “what a brave kid!” gosh, this photo is priceless!

i still had the camera rolling when he finished the wave. i truly believe that surfing brings out a pure smile and this is the perfect example of that. good job Yugo-kun! you’re a very brave kid!

and of course, i had to congratulate this young kid for doing such a great job today!

then we came back to the beach and enjoyed the perfect weather in hawaii.

a kid just being a kid. haha.

then us hungry surfers went to eat pho. same place as last year because Yugo-kun loved it!

then i went to take the high school kids out for an afternoon session. another 5 hour surf day and i’m totally satisfied again! same thing tomorrow so better get going to sleep. goodnight from hawaii!

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkT0WkIB8D8[/youtube]

super mom Namami-san yesterday on some beautiful waves! gosh, this woman has a lot of motivation to get good really fast! all she thinks about is surfing! good surfing Nanami-san! blue skies continue.

look how beautiful the water is! so clean that it looks like you’re surfing right on the reef.

what is glassy? japan river mouths are glassy. the right river flow, the right wind, and the right swell. the perfect combination for perfect conditions.

was stoked to see Shintaro-san in shikoku. super cool guy and good surfer.

Shintaro-san in the most epic conditions you will ever dream of. he was surfing the lefts all by himself.

nice turn Shintaro-san.

just looking at any japanese boat fascinates me. so basic and so strong.

when it rains hard, all kinds of things from the mountains come flying out through the river mouths. don’t be surprised if you’re pulling into a barrel and get hit by a 40′ tree. ouch! not the safest kind of surfing for sure.

gosh, i miss the 500 yen or $4 lunch sets in shikoku.