had such a great time surfing again with Abe-san and his son Yuta-kun. just two nice men enjoying the surf in hawaii.

Yuta-kun had some nice rides!

Abe-san was charging! seen him catch so many big waves.

Yuta-kun going backside to diamond head.

thought i’d do something different this time. mount the camera on my board and try to get the both of us riding. came out perfect!

thank you Abe-san and Yuta-kun for a wonderful tropical hawaiian day. hope you had a safe flight back to Sendai!

Beauty and the Beast.
Super Typhoon Maysak: Category 5 Hurricane.
Very Danerous! Already 5 dead.
Heading to the Philippines.
180mph winds.
Good morning 5:30am.
North shore sleeping.
South shore waist high and clean.
Diamond Head biggest at chest high but side winds.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Clouds, sun, showers, and rainbows!
Surfing all day.
Have a wonderful day!

ok, get ready for the super typhoon! the biggest of the year so far. heading straight to the philippines pushing south swells up to japan this weekend. very dangerous so be careful!

always good to see my friends at the beach. friends i would have never ever met if it wasn’t for surfing. i met Wade Tokoro about 30 years ago. a great surfer, a great shaper, and one of the nicest guys in the world.

i met Reid out in the water at bowls. another great surfer and one of the nicest guys in the world. so if i didn’t surf, i wouldn’t have met these 2 amazing guys. and my life probably wouldn’t be this good. hank you surfing!

passed by magic island today and got the backstage view of the crew shooting Hawaii Five-0.

then took my little friend surfing this afternoon.

been taking this kid ever since he was 5 years old. today was his first time surfing on his own. you should have seen his expression after he caught his first wave. priceless!

on my last long trip, i was sitting next to a really nice japanese guy on the airplane. we started talking and he told me to watch this movie called “Eternal Zero.” i watched it and it was one of the best japanese movies i’ve ever seen. it’s about the Kamakaze pilots in WWII. you should watch it too!