Nice knees.
Good morning 6am.
Chest high sets at Ala Moana. Super clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and windy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Super sunny and warm. Lot’s of rainbows.
Have a wonderful day!

i pull up the the beach this morning at 7:30am and was greeted with the biggest double rainbow! it was so beautiful! some people don’t like the showers in hawaii but i’m a shower lover. if there are no showers, there are no rainbows! had a photo shoot so i was back to my nervous self again. i’m super comfortable behind the camera, but not in front of it. i don’t freeze anymore, but i still feel super nervous.

want to thank the camera and staff crew this morning for the awesome time and opportunity. when the video comes out, i will post the website and link. thank you guys again!

and wanted to thank Hirano-san for the photos. had a great time in the ocean with you!

anchoring the boat is tricky. you have to lay it down in a good place gracefully. if you do, it will come up easy. if you don’t, get ready to free dive. i have my little anchor spots at certain spots. most of the time successful.

everyday is a different day in the ocean. you just don’t know what you will see. so when the dolphins cone to greet you, you know that day was special. thank you Hirano-san again for the wonderful time and photos. hope to see you someday in Akita!

one of the questions in the interview this morning was “what is surfing to you?” my answer was very simple, “surfing is my life, the rest are details.” i’ve been having the wildest summer so far. great waves, great people, and great time. not bad turn for an old guy huh? haha. surf your dream!

Rainbow!