i had no idea the tabs on the top of cans were made to hold the straw. did you know?

some people surf once, some people surf twice, and some people surf forever. i’m pretty sure that Oshima-san will be the one to surf forever. he looks happier than a kid riding a ride at disneyland. we were just laughing and having such a great time yesterday. going surfing again this morning and i can’t wait to see the pure stoke in this young man again!

the waves have been pretty big to get to the outside but Oshima-san wants to go out and get the big ones. so i taught him how to dive under the waves. perfect form!

going underwater is the coolest thing ever. doing it or watching it, i love it both!

i finally got my headstands down. love doing it because when the blood rushes to my head, i feel a natural high. a natural high in the ocean is the ultimate feeling in the world!

took the girls out yesterday afternoon and trying to get them to put the board on the rail. rail surfing is the key to power and speed. both a necessity for quality surfing. good job girls! perfect rail surfing!

last, check out this photo from a diving trip i went on in the maldives a couple of years ago. i couldn’t believe how many fish there were! makes me want to go back there someday to check out how the ocean around the world use to be. the way it use to be before man overkilled it. so yes, in my opinion, the maldives has the best diving in the world and no where even comes close. go check it out for yourself.

The California Drought Continues…
Good morning 5:30am.
Chest high at Ala Moana.
Overhead at Diamond Head.
Waist high at Waikiki.
Strong trade winds at 30mph.
Little morning sickness becoming better in the afternoon.
Cloudy morning becoming sunny and warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

for the past week, i’ve been trying to save my baby avocado tree. my big tree died, dropped a fruit, then this baby came out. i had to move it so i dug it out and replanted it. not looking too good so been watering it everyday, talking to it everyday, and watching it as much as possible. in the front, you can see my rosemary looking good. just hoping my avocado tree gets strong again.

i planted this gardenia plant here a few months ago and it’s growing super strong. the ground dirt and rain water keeping it so healthy.

the basil looking good too.

and the bird of paradise plant in full bloom! yeah, i’m turning my yard into a full on garden. slowly but surely.

had another great time with Oshima-san this morning. some of his best rides as his surfing is getting better and better each day. just love watching Oshima-san so stoked on surfing.

then took the girls out this afternoon for a long surf. gosh, i ended up surfing 5 hours today!!!

then i felt like polishing the boat so i started polishing it in the bumpy ocean. after 30 minutes, i started feeling sick. all my mexican lunch started to come back up to my throat. i stopped and jumped in the water. after i caught my first wave, i felt normal again. don’t ever try to polish a boat in the rocking sea. but that 30 minutes made her shine again so i guess it was all worth it!

yes, the best view in the world. i love this place!

then i came home and my friend Dexter stopped by and brought some crab. put in the steamer, ate it with ponzu and a beer. now it’s 9pm and my bedtime. surfing all day again tomorrow so can’t wait to get up again! good night.