Man vs. Wild
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and side shore.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Super sunny and very warm.
Have a wonderful day!

had a great time surfing with Komatsubara-san again this morning. after our long 3 hour surf session yesterday, he told me that he didn’t want to surf for too long. he also went hiking to the top of diamond head this morning before we surfed so he was already tired.

anyway, we paddle out, i let him try another one of my magic boards, and he didn’t want to go in. 3 hours later, we finally paddled in both pretty happy and pretty tired.

Komatsubara-san did some big backside round house cutbacks on the magic single fin shaped by Matchi. he was surfing super good and was super stoked. a magic board can change your life.

2 days we surfed for a total of 6 hours. lot’s of waves, lot’s of rides, lot’s of smiles, and lot’s of laughter. thank you for the wonderful 2 days of surfing Komatsubara-san. keep on surfing in shikoku!

so stoked to see Komatsubara-san ripping on my 5’7 GM by TS.

a magic board for me and a magic board for everyone. so stoked to have boards that will work in any conditions.

and always happy to surf watching the sun rise. good surfing again Komatsubara-san!

super stoked to hear from Kaneko-san and his son Rei-kun. the kids growing up into a fine young man. keep on surfing boys! and hope to see you in hawaii again!

just downloaded these photos from our super cool session with Fujiki-san. glassy!

great surfing Fujiki-san. keep on surfing and keep on smiling.

i’ve been researching a lot about whisky. very interested in the aging and production process. someday i hope to buy a barrel too. cheers!