woke up 4am this morning to get ready for our dawn patrol and all day session. was out in the ocean by 6:45am just in time to surf with the amazing orange/yellow beautiful sunrise. Seigo-san day 2 trying to catch 50 more waves today.

timing is very important. i was planning to head straight to my secret spot far away but after passing by bowls and seen only a few dawn patrol surfers out, i thought why not warm up on some perfect long rights? Seigo-san caught so many good ones, then when the morning crowd came out, it was time to run away and surf with nobody around.

there are waves everywhere in hawaii. you just have to know where to look depending on the wind, swell direction, tide, and day of the week. today couldn’t have been a better day to get some compact waves breaking on knee high deep razor sharp reef. it was just Seigo-san and I all morning long surfing and laughing. this is a part of hawaii that not too many people have seen before. and the good thing about it is everyday it’s a different wave. most times super windy and junk, but today was super clean and nice!

we were driving around and seen a pod of wild dolphins. usually they swim fast, but today they were swimming slow. i tell Seigo-san “go swim with them!” he looks at me and says “isn’t it dangerous? i say, “hurry and just go!” after he was swimming in the deep blue ocean where huge whales and big tiger sharks lurk, i thought to myself “omg, maybe this is dangerous?” haha.

if you look way in the back of this photo, you will see a tiny dot. that is Seigo-san’s head. i left him there for a while to follow the dolphins. i’m sure he started to freak out. haha.

then we were super hungry so went to “Da Spot” to eat some indo curry and a fresh smoothie.

Seigo-san saw a whale yesterday, swam with turtles yesterday, and swam with dolphins today. he’s a very lucky guy to see it all in the wild, not at sea life park! tomorrow we will spend another day in the ocean and hopefully swim with more creatures from our beautiful mother nature. yeah! after lunch, we went back out and surfed our third session.

the wind and weather is as perfect as it gets. glassy surf in town with super fun waves. for the past 7 days, i spent 28 hours in the ocean!!! omg, that’s crazy! i’m so tired and it’s only 7:20pm but i’m getting ready for bed. see you tomorrow at dawn. good night.

gosh, i have about a hundred photos on my desktop waiting to get posted to blogs. starting to fall behind because the action is happening too fast for me to keep up. i have Seigo-san and Yuki-san for 3 full days so i know that time will fly, and so will our adventures. so better start off with yesterday’s day 1.

Seigo-san is the owner of Marutaya Ramen. very successful ramen shops in wakayama that is a must go place for me. Yuki-san is one of the managers. a young boy at 22 years old. Seigo-san is teaching him how to be a good worker, and how to enjoy hawaii. both very important to a successful career. and of course surfing completes the happy circle of success.

look at the clouds! freaking amazing! when i was in high school, we use to call these “swell clouds.” it is rare when the clouds form like this in hawaii but when it does, you know the waves are going to be good. and yes, the clouds were right ever since high school!

Yuki-san’s first complete ride! right into the swell clouds, waikiki, and diamond head.

japanese surfers are very well mannered. they will never drop in, or never even paddle for a wave someone else is paddling for. in japan, it’s a rule. but in hawaii, my rule is “if i say go, GO!” i was yelling “go, go” to Seigo-san but he still didn’t want to drop in on me. i paddled back out and said “hey Seigo-san, this is hawaii. if i say go, you must GO!” he said “hai.”

next wave, i say “go” and Seigo-san goes! a perfect wave!!! i surfed with Seigo-san before but yesterday, he shined on the big waves!

and most japanese surfers don’t like to go backside. and i tell each and every one, “hey, if you can’t go backside, you will never be able to do a cutback. doing a bottom turn backside is the other half to complete a successful frontside cutback.” Seigo-san kept on practicing backside, and by the end of the day, he did his first ever frontside cutback! i was so stoked for him!

in the beginning, Yuki-san kept on looking down and falling down. i kept on telling him “if you look down, you will fall down.” then he focused on looking straight at the hotels and surfed perfectly. i can’t wait to take him surfing again. look forward Yuki-san!

Seigo-san was super stoked that his surfing went up a few levels just in one day. he was ripping!

and yes, i got to get a few waves of my own. longboard, shortboard, knee high, 20′, i’m super happy to be surfing! surfing is my life, everything else has to go around it. sorry.

and a photo from our amazing blue water turtle dive. it was freaking amazing! imagine Yuki-san’s first time out of japan and into the deep blue seeing this and connecting with nature. i would freak out!

Keep Strong!
Good morning 4am.
North shore 2-4′ and coming down. Super clean.
South shore chest high and super clean.
Perfect waves everywhere!
No wind.
Sunny and very warm.
Clean water, clean air, clean waves.
Going Naminori all day!
See you in the water.