Ogisako-san caught some really good waves the other day. wave after wave, long ride after long ride.

always smiling and stoked on surfing.

morning sunlight with diamond head in the background. great surfing Ogisako-san!

then yesterday another sunrise surf session. it’s my first time meeting surfers from Slovakia. a very cool couple with cool stories about surfing, skiing, wakeboarding, and bali surf lessons.

coming from the other side of the world all the way to hawaii. i ask them “why did you decide to come to hawaii? answer was “because we want to surf!” great choice!

Jan is a very big man. he’s gotta be about 6’4. super good balance, super good coordination, and super good surfing. i’m sure he will get really good really fast.

Martina took a surf lesson in bali. her instructor took her to Changu. omg! Changu? if you’re familiar with Changu, it is absolutely not a place to learn how to surf. that wave is very dangerous, very shallow, and very for the experienced. anyway, she got hurt there. but this woman never gave up. before we paddled out, she was very cautious and asked many questions about reef, sharks, reef, and sharks. haha. she didn’t want to get hurt or eaten by a shark. come to find out, she’s a model! now i understand.

The next best wave pool! Bristol, UK.
Good morning 6am.
North shore 2-3′ and junky.
HIO at Haleiwn ON!
South shore waist high and clean.
North winds at 10mph.
Very chilly morning becoming warm around 9am.
Super sunny.
Surfing all day.
Have a wonderful day!

my nephews went to mentawai this summer and scored it as good as it gets. i finally got a sneak preview of the video that they are making and it is unbelievable! check out Seth getting barreled! video coming out soon and i’ll let you know when and where.

the weather has been awesome! cold mornings and warm days. i got in my car this morning and something was weird. i had my A/C on at 23 degrees celsius and it felt like a heater! outside temperature read 19 degrees. crazy!

i haven’t missed a sunset in a long time. here is another one of my favorite sunset viewing area.

met a guy that goes scuba diving in waikiki with a metal detector. i asked him what he got today and he showed me 2 rings, one a fully studded diamond ring.

he posts his finds on a website and gives it back to the owner if they claim it. what a nice man! i will give you his website address later.

so cool to see Kaori-chan enjoying hawaii! a championship surfer with a championship lifestyle.

and Kaori-chan’s husband Ryouta on a nice one. every time i see this couple, it makes me really believe in “Destiny.”

OMG, did you see this mornings sunrise? it was so beautiful. and even more beautiful when i jumped into the water.

i had a great time surfing with this couple from Slovakia. Martina and Jan are super energetic and super stoked on surfing. i was so happy to take them surfing in hawaii on their first trip to this island on the other side of their world.

then went to take the girls surfing this afternoon. Hiyori-chan is now riding a shortboard. surfing, paddling, and riding all by herself. i was just sitting on the boat watching them enjoy the whole ocean to themselves.

when i dropped them off in the ocean at 2:15pm, there was nobody out! these 2 girls were very lucky on this beautiful saturday afternoon.