monday was the biggest day of the swell. surfed it for 7 hours and felt like i was on a surf trip or something. i got home at night totally burnt. passed in the channel at bowls 6 times that day. stopped and watched for a wave or two. always one hand on my camera, and one hand on the throttle so i can run when the close out sets come. the best view in the world sitting high watching everybody getting barreled! check out this sequence.

this is perfect positioning. take off behind the peak, grab your rail, and set up for the barrel.

this is getting deep. still holding onto the rail so you can pull your board a little up and ride the high line.

this is commitment. knowing you will exit the dream tunnel.

i was watching boats begin super cautious. they would wait on the outside until the ocean seems calm. then when they get the chance, full throttle ahead!

this $200,000 boat captain wasn’t taking any chances. i wouldn’t either.

there have been many accidents with boat vs. wave in this channel. if you don’t pay attention, you could sink your dream boat in a minute. we’ve all seen it before.

the boys of the big bowl. super stoked to see everybody enjoying this wonderful first big swell of the summer season.

and yes, Ronnie always gets the best waves. he waits, waits, and waits. i’m pretty sure he waited a very long time for this one, and scored! looks like pipeline! and after i took this photo, i full throttled to get out of the way. scary!

had a wonderful day of surfing again. woke up early to get it before the winds do.

i’ve known Fujiki-san for a long time. super cool surfer that just loves to surf!

yes, it was another beautiful morning here in hawaii. very warm and very sunny.

picture perfect diamond head.

luckily there were no big waves closing out the channel today. it was pretty dam nice!

gosh, i love this feeling!

patiently waiting.

Fujiki-san caught some really good waves today. super stoked to surf together because us surfers know the feeling.

thank you for a great time Fujiki-san! see you again next week!

the kids starting off at a very young age. always good to learn about and experience the ocean.

then got super hungry so went to highway inn and ate like hawaiians. gosh, it was so good!

lychee is worth more then gold here in hawaii. my grandpa’s neighbor use to have a tree in his yard but cut it down after people kept on stealing the lychee every season. it’s too expensive for me to buy so i was happy when my friend Carl gave me a big bag full of sweet lychee.

i can’t wait to eat them all!

i see this little 2 year old girl surfing with her mommy all the time. she loves surfing and tries to smile, but she is always cold so her mouth is shivering. i found this little Dove Wetsuit at my house i’ve had for years. wanted to give it to the right baby, and i finally found her. keep warm little girl! keep on surfing and see you in the water.

if you ask most surfers in hawaii, they will all tell you that they are burnt out. the waves have been so good for too long. when there are waves, everybody is happy. lots of happy smiles and happy people, including me.

for the past month, i’ve pulled into 40 barrels, did 500 off the lips, 200 floaters, 300 cutbacks, and caught over 1000 waves. and also pushed people into about 500 waves. as a surfer, i’m fully content. i feel great, i feel healthy, and i feel happy. surfing is my life. the rest are details. more waves on the way so more happiness!