what does “spread apart” mean? i say that over and over when i take more than one person surfing. if you paddle out too close, or ride the wave too close, there is a chance of getting hurt by each others body, or surfboard. it’s hard to absorb in the water when i’m saying it but i see accidents all the time that could have been prevented by just “spreading apart.”

i’ve been taking these 2 girls surfing ever since they were born. i’ve must have said “spread out” over a thousand times. i explained why over and over but they never listened. so recently, i just don’t bother wasting my time and saying it. then it finally happened! they paddled out close together, the caught a wave too close together, and the almost both went to the hospital close together. one more inch and one of the girls would have had a hard epoxy surfboard breaking her nose or face. thank god that didn’t happen, but now they know what could have.
there is a simple rule. an average longboard is 9′. an average leash is 9′, or 10′ after it stretches. so add it up and you have about 20′. then add your own board and leash up and you have 20′. so if you want to keep your body and surfboard safe from other bodies and surfboards, spread out 40′. and if you don’t listen, someday you might be lucky and just get hit in the leg like one of these girls, or someday you might not and be taken in an ambulance to the hospital. the choice is yours.
so “SPREAD OUT!”

This weeks weather! Love it or leave it!

i planted a baby gardenia plant in my yard last month and the first flower bloomed! so fresh, so sweet, and so happy! many more to come!

been craving fish but too busy to go dive and get some. so i called my friend Derek as they were coming in from a day of fishing. i already know this boat has fish because Derek is the best fisherman i know. when everybody else isn’t catching fish, Derek is catching fish. and when everybody else is catching fish, Derek is catching more fish. that’s how good he is.

grabbed 3 travelly’s and 1 uku, stuck it in my backpack, jumped on the bike, and got home in a flash. can you believe my new bike gets 76 miles/gallon or 33 kilometers/liter? i rode around all day yesterday and spent only $3 on gas. thanks for the fish Derek!

and no matter where i am, i always stop to watch the sunset. an amazing one from hawaii kai boat ramp.

last night the uku was my dinner. black bean steamed chinese style.

want to thank Naomi-san for this 12 year old bottle of Hibiki Whisky. i can’t wait to sip it into the night.

and thank you Hikaru for sending me these photos. gosh, i miss hanging out with you guys in japan. hope to see you soon.

and thanks for this photo too. Mt. Fuji always makes me smile.