4 straight days of pumping surf? i really thought yesterday was going to be super small but i was wrong. still some solid sets with lots of power. the strongest and longest south swell ever? i think so.

Matsumoto-san was surfing the typhoon last week in miyazaki. now he’s in hawaii. same like me! chasing the waves or perfect timing? doesn’t matter what you call it as long as we’re riding big swells. perfect wave and perfect bottom turn.

followed by a nice off the lip. awesome surfing Matsumoto-san!

and of course, the duck dive. perfect!

very very happy surfers after such a great session. have a safe trip back to japan and keep on chasing typhoons Matsumoto-san!

long walls and glassy conditions. i love it!

yesterday i took this 9 year and 6 year old kids surfing. so stoked to see their facial expressions. the 9 year old kid kept on wanting to surf and never wanting to go in. i’m pretty sure he’s hooked! look at him almost getting barreled!

usually when i go to japan for a week, i get fat. yeah, usually gain about 3 kilos or 10 pounds eating that wonderful food. last trip, i lost weight because i surfed so much. came back to hawaii skinnier than ever. and ever since i’ve been back, i’ve been surfing so much that i’m losing even more weight. so every night i’ve been eating a lot of protein. came home last night and cooked up 2 steaks. ate 2 servings of rice and miso soup. gained some weight back for sure.

so good and so lucky i can eat anything i want for the next month as the waves continue to burn off every calorie i take in.

Wow, Huge Wave!
Good morning 5:30am.
South shore down.
Head high at Ala Moana. Little morning sickness. Better later.
Diamond Head overhead and windy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Super sunny and very warm.
Surfing all day.
Have a wonderful day!

yesterday it looked like this. the sailboat dragged all the way from the outside of rock piles all the way to the beach. the waves pushing it towards shore smashing and killing the reef. so sad to see this.

not often you will see a sailboat come this far in. thanks to the most powerful swell of the century.

and debris everywhere. this you can pick up, but the gas and oil you can’t.

such a beautiful sail boat going to waste.

am i a typhoon magnet or what? another one coming towards hawaii. more waves on the way.

had a great surf session with Matsumoto-san this morning. waves were huge but he charged! some solid 5′ sets at bowls but we still surfed for 3 solid hours.

i heard from Maki-san that the Yajima-ya lunch wagon makes the best mushroom chicken. so we went to try it out for the first time.

the cool thing about japanese people opening businesses in hawaii is you know there will be quality food and good service. that’s just the japanese style.

with all the ahi fever, there are ahi specials.

Matsumoto-san ordered the ahi belly and it looked delicious. $11.

i ordered the mushroom chicken and it was delicious. $9. thank you Matsumoto-san for a wonderful surf and lunch. and thank you Maki-san for telling me a great place to eat.

today the boat was way up on the beach. everything gone. i’m sure the owner came and took stuff, and i’m sure other people came and took stuff too. tomorrow i think they will cut it up and put it in the rubbish can. i can’t wait to get it off this beautiful beach.

Josh Moniz made it past round 1 today and will be surfing in round 2 tomorrow against Dane Reynolds. the U.S Open is the biggest contest in california and i’m stoked Joshua is representing hawaii. Go-Josh!
well, the swell is still solid. 5′ sets this evening and still pumping. i’m completely surfed out so when i was surfing today, i was mostly watching. watching the solid swells pumping in making everybody so dam happy!
oh, i taught this amazing family how to surf this afternoon. mother, father, and 2 little cute sons. all for the first time and all did great! so stoked! then we ate shave ice and now i’m sure they are all sleeping very good. i sure will. goodnight.