it’s my 4th time here and things only getting better and better. i had no idea what kind of waves we were going to get this time. heard the rumors but never believe anything endless i see it with my own eyes. well, i seen it with my own eyes!
we were driving yesterday morning looking for a spot we heard was like bali’s uluwatu. driving the wrong way, going down streets just heading for the beach. and this is what we pulled up too! taiwan’s uluwatu! could you imagine how excited we were? perfect waves with nobody out.
the waves were offshore and pumping all day long. surfed a solid morning, then another solid afternoon. caught some good waves, and did a lot of paddling. what an awesome day!
taiwan wasn’t on my mind until the day i left hawaii. made a few calls, and next thing you know, Kimura-san and Hayato joined the soul surfing tour. when you jump at the moment, the moment will come. Hayato’s moment surfing perfect waves in taiwanese paradise!
when we pulled up, nobody was out. i waxed up my board and was the first one in the water. so stoked to have that moment alone in a foreign country. it’s moments like this i live for. thank you Kimura-san for being the morning photographer. on my 6’0 x 18 1/4 x 2 3/8 TSSC shaped by Matchi.
yes, i’m a very happy man! and very happy that i came here to surf these amazing waves. we went back in the afternoon and it was even bigger. solid 6′ pumping surf in taiwan!
after all that paddling, we needed to get pampered. drove into the city for a massage and nabe. Hayato, Mori-san, and Kimura-san enjoying the moment. thanks guys for another wonderful day!
driving up the coast today, surf a solid session, eat dim sum, jumping on a flight to taipei, staying at a hostel, go night market, then jumping on a plane tomorrow morning. a busy day ahead but looking forward to every minute.
Taiwan Uluwatu
Behind the Wall
yesterday we took the 3 hour drive up the coast. through the mountains and along the coastline. it was so beautiful! i came to taiwan 4 times and this is the first of renting a car. it’s amazing how much you can explore and how much you can remember. i think i can drive around this whole country and maybe someday i will.
driving through the back roads heading to surf spots is fun. right when i see the waves, my heart starts pumping and i get so excited.
pulling right up to the beach, waxing the board, and going surfing. free parking, free ocean, and free life!
then we surfed our second round in the evening watching the sunset. it was just another beautiful moment.
my first time up this side and i think i’m loving it. i better surf more and more because i can feel my surf trunks getting really tight. it’s my first time up to this side of Taiwan and i think i’m falling in love with it.
surf your dream.
