you know what’s so funny? i’ve been so dam busy that i totally forgot i took these photos. i just uploaded data off my camera and wondered what this was??? it was our super secret surf session with Saito-san, Nishi-kun, Kanae-san, and Hikaru-san.

surfing is all about enjoying it with friends.

Saito-san on the take off.

Saito-san on the bottom turn.

this is a nice photo. putting the rail off the bottom. good surfing!

Nishi-kun surfs really good. super fast and super smooth.

nice!

Hikaru-san’s been going on a lot of surf trips. a lifestyle many surfers dream of.

nice wave!

Kanae-san was the birthday girl this day. a birthday girl with many birthday gifts from mother nature. waves!

good ride, good smile.

Nishi-san on another good one.

had a great time surfing with Saito-san and friends. glad i found these photos i forgot i even took. haha. see you all very soon!

Hawaii: The Big Island
Good morning 5:45am.
North shore down to chest high. Clean morning conditions.
South shore waist high with chest high sets. Little bumpy but clean conditions.
Light variable winds so clean in the morning and onshore in the afternoon.
Super sunny and warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

woke up at 4:30am and drove out to the north shore for a dawn patrol session. raining, windy, and very dark. then the sun came out and, then the biggest double rainbow, and perfect glassy off shore conditions. was focusing on laniakea because i wanted to surf a long right point break. paddled out and only 1 guy beat me there. got into a good rotation as perfect rights kept on coming to me. after an hour, i was satisfied. stopped for some cream puffs at wailua bakery, then had a happy drive home.

spring is always best. when i was going in, there were only about 8 surfers out. 2-4′ off shore and absolutely no tourists or pro surfers. it was just locals only time.

always love taking the long way home. better scenery, better smell, and better greenery.

stopped by my favorite filipino food restaurant on the way back for my 4 choice combo for $8.99. cheap and really good!

then went out for a quick spin in the afternoon. gosh, there are so many turtles these days that you actually have to drive slow. they are so tame and just won’t move for you.

had a great time surfing with Moriguchi-san. super cool girl that loves to surf.

good riding Moriguchi-san! keep on surfing!