i had 2 hours of sleep on the 6.5 hour flight back to hawaii. couldn’t sleep because too much on my mind. had to put on my tibet meditation music to put my mind at ease. arrived in hawaii, jumped on the yamaha, and got home before the rain.

i was planning to relax today but 2 young girls wanted to go surfing so that’s what we did.

the waves were so beautiful with the light north winds. i just sat on Mayuki watching the girls surf with the binoculars. thought i’d take a nap but my mind was still out in space.

looked out to the west and seen the sky clearing. i knew the sunset was going to be amazing so i grabbed my board, waxed up, and jumped into the beautiful ocean. it was sunset surf time!

on days like today, this single fin keeps me happy. just smooth rail to rail surfing. always great to be back to the basics.

surfed with the girls and watched the most incredible sunset. one side the sun was setting, then on the other side, a colorful rainbow over diamond head. this is when i realized i was really glad to be back home.

we stayed out and surfed into dark. just another amazing day.
tomorrow have a long day. gotta start planning for my next adventure. backpacking surf and explore trip. exciting! as for my jetlag, i’ll just let it keep going and going. no sense fix it because i’ll be heading into multiple time zones in the next few days. just going with the flow of time. good night.

i had a great last day in japan. we took a 1 hour walk around tokyo and it was cool to see things from a different perspective. looking at all the high rises thinking “how the heck did they build this roppongi tower?” then people watching was fun too. different styles, different jobs, and different lifestyles. but the most thing that caught my eye was how hard people work in japan. from construction, to police, to restaurant staff, to pretty much anything. everybody working so hard without any distractions. came back to hawaii today and seen a policeman talking on his cell phone while directing traffic, seen a construction worker smoking a cigarette drinking a coke. then i thought to myself “welcome back to hawaii!” haha.

yesterday, i also went to visit a friend in a tokyo hospital who isn’t doing too well. walking into the room, i had mixed emotions. a part of me happy to see him, and another part of me sad to see him in that condition. he’s much older than me and i know he had a great life. when i held his hand, i could feel him squeezing my hand trying to tell me something. no, i’m not a psychic or anything, but i could feel him trying to tell me to keep healthy and to enjoy my life. just by the vibrations, i could feel the connection. i felt happy, i felt alive, and i felt like there are many things i must do before i die. been thinking of it ever since and now that i’m back in hawaii, i have a part of me that wants to live my life to the full extent for him. so the next time i see him, i can squeeze his hand and tell him “thank you very much!” hang in there my friend.

Thank you Miwa-san!