Only 4:25pm and its dark in Tokyo!
And very cold.
Drink sake and keep warm.
Where in the World?
ok, i leave today to japan. can’t wait to get on a flight. last night i was up super late figuring out where to go. checking the swell forecast, making calls, sending and receiving texts and emails, and just never ending. i probably spent a total of 8 hours on planning out my next trip. it will start off in japan and who knows where it will go after that. i was planning around the papua new guinea area but swell around there looks very weak. don’t want to spend $3,000 and to surf waist high waves. now that the pacific ocean is brewing again, including a rare out of season typhoon, my focus changed again. when i see red, i get excited, but when i see purple, i can’t sleep. come sunday, i’ll be surfing some purple waves! through all my contacts and research, i know where will be the best and that’s where i will be. but first, i gotta get to freezing cold japan.
it’s so hard to pack for a trip when you don’t know where you’re going. i know japan will be cold so i have to take warm clothes, but i want to surf in paradise so i need tshirts and shorts too. i’m carrying on everything so have to pack very light. moving fast, moving suddenly, and nobody knows my plans because i don’t even know it. where there will be waves, there will be kirby. this is a very exciting way to travel and one of my favorite hobbies. i love it! chase your dreams.
December 3, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report
Big Wave Riding in Portugal. OMG!
Good morning 6am.
North: 4-6′ and super morning sickness choppy. Cleaner later. South: Waist high and Shoulder high on East wrap around spots. East: 4-6′ and stormy.
Wind: Trade winds at 20-25mph.
Weather: Rainy and wet morning, maybe sunny later.
Contest: I think guarantee ON!
Plan: Pack and go.
Watch: Isaiah and Seth in Round 3: http://www.aspworldtour.com/events/2014/mqs/728/vans-world-cup/live Have a wonderful day!