omg, it was pretty dark and cold today. probably the coldest of the year for us in hawaii. but so what? the water is warm and the waves are good so let’s go naminori!

went to meet Hinako-chan and Kaito-kun this morning at bowls. then we ran into Minami-chan. a super japanese morning surf session. waves were super fun and it was uncrowded. we all caught so many good waves!

so stoked to see these kids surfing so good. Kaito-kun was ripping! super good style and big backside off the lips.

Hinako-chan is surfing really fast and strong. super cool watching her set the rail and drive off the bottom turn.

it was their first time surfing the south shore. both told me they had a relaxing time today. i know that feeling because surfing the north shore everyday can be stressful. it’s a whole new ballpark out there. good surfers need good balance and that’s why i love hawaii. good balance everywhere. if you ever get stressed on the north shore, come to town. always relaxing and fun waves.

then i went surfing with the girls this evening. the clouds cleared and the sun came out right at sunset time. another golden moment in the ocean. no wind, glassy conditions, and perfect waves. what another awesome day!

thank you Kurokawa-san for the treats! fresh bonito flakes from mugi, shikoku. my favorite!
cold north wind and weather continues. keep warm and go surfing!

Good waves.
Good surfing.
Good rainbow.
Good sunset.
Good day.

when driving in a car, you can see only certain things. when riding a tall motorcycle, you can see everything. i had 2 free hours yesterday afternoon so i decided to go up the ridge and check things out. just looking for something different, something untouched, and something interesting. my motorcycle is stock so it’s very quiet. i can roll down mountains in complete silence.

and when you pull up to corners on the ridge, you can see some amazing breathtaking views. i’ve been living in hawaii my whole life and i still trip out on how beautiful this island is.

i know someday i’m going to get lost. it’s just a matter of time. i just hope my sense of direction will get me out of the jungle. all i have to know which way the ocean is and it’s going to be easy because i can smell it.

next time i go up this mountain, i’m going to take up a small tent and sleep overnight. it’s my little version of “Into the Wild.”

yet another breathtaking billion dollar view. and i got to see all of this in 2 hours.

then of course i stop to check out the surf. south swell continues. tomorrow i bet there will be 4′ sets at some secret spots. north shore 15′ and maybe only waimea bay. then get ready for 4 days of strong north winds. lucky for us guys living on the south shore as we surf perfect waves all week long.

Hiyori-chan came from freezing Ishinomaki yesterday to very warm Hawaii. blue sky, white sand, and lots of aloha. welcome to Hawaii Hiyori-chan!

she surfed really well. just riding the ocean as if she rode it everyday.

this was yesterday. today i’m going to take her out for a special sunset session. different colors, different light, and different feeling. i know she’s going to love it!