i’ve been surfing with a lot of surfers that are totally hooked on surfing. every one just trying to get better and better. surfing is really easy if you take it step by step. but if you try too hard to do things you aren’t capable of, you will surely get frustrated. learning the basics is very important because once you master it, you will get better pretty fast.

Kuroda-san’s been surfing for 10 years and really wanted to do a cutback. the first thing i told him was “ok, let’s start from the basics again. ride this wide and thick board. if you can’t do a cutback on this board, you can’t do a cutback on your own shortboard.” so let’s work wave by wave on doing a cutback, then you will now how it feels, then you will know how to do it over and over. just make sure to keep looking forward, and bend your knees.

then when you take your bottom turn, go down the wave, get speed, and do your cutback slowly with your head looking straight ahead.

yes, perfect! nice how you are keeping your head up and knees bent. great job!

then we surf our second round and i put him on a regular short board. i knew he was ready. then i see him doing 2 cutbacks on a wave! as he paddled back out, i could tell by the smile on his face that he was very happy. after surfing 10 years and finally doing multiple cutbacks is a greatest feeling in the world.

and yes, the waves were absolutely perfect! look how glassy it was! Kuroda-san told me it was his best session every since he started surfing. so amazing!

shaka brah! keep your head up, knees bent, and smile forever! hope to see you again Kuroda-san!

forgot to post so many photos from our panama trip. was waiting for Hawaii Skin Diver TV to come out before showing the prize fish Demetrias shot. i watched every move this yellowfin tuna did as it approached from the deep blue. i saw Demetrias shoot it, fight it, put 3 shafts in it, and bring it back to the boat. i was on the sidelines thinking to myself “OMG! I want one too!” never happened but there’s always a next time. found more photos from that trip so will post it soon.

my grandnephew finally comes to me without crying. all i have to say is “hey, do you want to go smell the flowers?” i grab him, we take a walk around my neighborhood, we find the sweet tiare flower, and we both smell it and smile. and he knows exactly where it is.

you have to see his cute face when he puts his nose up to the flower to smell it. i just laugh.

then we go to the grape vine at my neighbors house. sweet grapes from the valley.

i let him touch it, but not eat it. why? because if he gets sick, my niece will kill me.

when was the last time you drank a fresh 100% apple juice? did you know that there is as much sugar in it as in 10 oreo cookies? omg, i’d rather eat the 10 oreo cookies and drink water. that’s crazy!

just got a text from Mike Woo who just got back to japan to shape. here is his new project called the “Orbit.” i can’t wait to try one! looks so fun! if you want to try it too, check TSSC.

Appreciate you own car!
Good morning 6am.
North shore 3-5′ and little bumpy. Morning sickness. V-Land probably best.
South shore small swell. Waist to shoulder high sets and clean. Ala Moana best conditions. Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm day.
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day!