The Mexican Border.
Good morning 7:40am.
North shore 2-3′ and very clean. Rocky rights and Laniakea best. South shore down from yesterday. Chest high at Ala Moana and clean. Light trade winds at 10mph so clean conditions everywhere.
Super sunny and warm day.
Going ocean and mountain.
Have a wonderful day!

once again, the waves at bowls was really good! head high and super perfect conditions. smaller than yesterday but everybody still happy with this surprise swell. was stoked to be surfing so close to my home and enjoying such a beautiful day. can’t wait for tomorrow!

20 years ago i put one shorts and one tshirt in my backpack and explored taiwan. at that time, i traveled up and down the coast from taipei to kenting and didn’t see one single surfer. found some really good waves but couldn’t find a surfboard anywhere. i don’t think anybody even surfed back then. on this past trip, i seen about 20 surfers just enjoying the ocean. no localism, no bad vibes, and no dropping in. just a bunch of taiwanese surfers enjoying the ocean like we all should. seen some great surfing and i can’t wait for the day one of these guys goes on the world tour. that would be so cool!

everybody having fun! the double taiwanese shaka!

on my first few waves, i had my gopro in my right hand. took off on a pretty big wave and did 3 turns and one cutback. here is my bottom turn on a perfect point left.

surfing in another country is always interesting. it’s just something totally different than surfing here in hawaii. i love the ride! and i love my 6’0 Matchi shape by TSSC.

on our last session, Kimura-san got caught by 30 or so big sets! i seen solid 6′ powerful waves break on him over and over. it looked like a marathon but he survived. happy to see him never giving up!
last, check out this video of 2014 japan summer sessions. just a taste of japanese surfing and japanese culture from above. thank you Todaheli@gmail.com for putting together this wonderful video.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YE3ARN7yKFM[/youtube]

the Heisman Trophy is awarded annually to the most outstanding player in college football. it was created in 1935 and never has a football player from hawaii ever came close to winning it. well, this year was different.

oregon quarterback Marcus Mariota won it! born and raised in hawaii with a proud polynesian background making history. i watched his interview after winning the trophy and he said “if one person in hawaii is successful, the whole hawaii is successful.” i think it was an amazing speech and i’m sure the whole entire state of hawaii, including all the polynesian islands in the south pacific are very proud of this amazing athlete. what a great role model!

back to south/east taiwan. everybody in hawaii asking me how it was. all i have to say is “excellent.” Kimura-san on an excellent wave.

Hayato Maki on the long bottom turn with his selfmade handshaped 5’3.