i had a super fun session with Shuudo-san and Chihiro-san from tokyo.

father and daughter on the same wave? i think that’s the coolest thing in the world!

and the side view. Chihiro-san and Shuudo-san surfing into diamond head.

nice smiles, nice surfing, and nice memory.

Chihiro-san’s last wave was huge! head high and charging. good job girl!

2 days ago, it was the coldest morning in 100 years. i woke up at 4:30am and thought i was in tohoku. big snow storm on the big island, frosty windows on cars, lots of jackets, and very cold feet. it’s times like this i appreciate my heated seats in the truck. i hope we don’t break anymore cold records.

a few months ago, policemen in new york took down this big man and choked him to death. yeah, he died. the policeman didn’t go to jail. the public was outraged. demonstrations all around america crying for justice. then a man pulled up to 2 policemen in new york and shot and killed them. he claimed revenge. you probably heard about this in the news. some think police officers abuse their authority. and yes, some do. but most don’t. i can feel for both sides. but in the end, nobody wins, everybody loses. and in this case, 4 people lost and i hope nobody else does. let’s have peace guys.

Don’t look back: Coolest Surf Photo.
Good morning 6:15am.
North shore 10′ from the North.
Check Laniakea and Sunset Beach. Big and bumpy.
South shore knee/wasit high.
North/East winds at 20mph.
Clouds, sun, showers, and rainbows.
Much warmer than the past few days.
Surfing all day again!
See you in the water.

instead of exercising at home this morning, i decided to exercise doing something productive. so at sunrise, i was down on Mayuki “wax on, wax off.” 1 hour of polishing, a great exercise, and a very beautiful shine.

then we loaded up the fishing poles, kids, and headed out to sea.

it was Dai-kun, Tatsuya-kun, Shuu-kun, and Lena-chan’s first time on a boat. the kids seemed nervous at first.

then they went on the front and i put the throttle to 34 knots. that’s when the excitement started. yelling and screaming for their life! haha. these kids spotted the first whale right outside diamond head, and many many turtles too.

then we went snorkeling and seen so many fish! more fish than hanauma bay. they were so excited.

Dai-kun was the first one in. i could hear his excitement when he first opened his eyes and seen all the fish. then i went to join him.

then it was lunch time because we were all hungry. i ordered the chefs special, pasta!

and the kids ate the fish and chips. the best fish and chips on the island.

it was such a beautiful day with the Koguma-san and Nanaumi-san families. so much fun and it was still only 1pm?

then i went to pick up Iwasaki-san and took him for a marathon 4 hour surf session this afternoon. perfect waves, perfect rides, and perfect happiness. we caught so many good waves and Iwasaki-san was ripping!

another day from sunrise to sunset. one of my friends asked me in the water today “how do you do it?” i told him, “i love my job, i love the ocean, i love the people, and i love my life. that’s how i do it.”
going to sleep well tonight and will do the same thing tomorrow. can’t wait! good night.