Kim Kardashian cover on Paper Magazine. OMG! Is that real?
Good morning 5:45am.
North shore up again. 6-8′ and Reef Haleiwa Pro ON start 8am!
South shore tiny and junky. Flat to knee high at Ala Moana and chest high at Diamond Head. No winds become light and weird. Onshore in the late morning. Sun, clouds, rain, and weather changing all day.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

after golfing yesterday, i actually thought about getting new clubs and equipment. then i thought again, “if i get new equipment, that means i have to golf again.” then i told myself “no thank you, i’d rather surf!” check out my 20 year old golf shoes. i used it like this yesterday, then it went into the rubbish can.

so happy to see Nomura-san progressing day by day. he rode this 11’0 yesterday, and then a 10’0 today. step by step to becoming a real surfer!

Inaida-san’s been watching “The Endless Summer” movie and it shows in his surfing. his style is getting better, his balance is getting better, and his soul is getting better. welcome to “The Endless Summer.”

Yuki-san can ride anything. always flowing so beautifully with the ocean.

welcome back to paradise. oh, it’s been so beautiful!

took these 4 hard core surfers out to Diamond Head and had a great time this morning. photos coming tomorrow! surfing all day and making so many new memories. what a great life in the ocean!

i met the coolest surfer couple from Sapporo. Ikuko-san and Kei-san just love surfing, and love hawaii. i seen them in the water before but it was the first time we surfed together. as soon as we got to the beach, Ikuko-san told me “i want to get good at surfing.” ok, that is easy! she really wanted to turn so i gave her some tips on the beach, and off we went in the water.

how do you turn? make sure you look forward, keep your knees bent, and once you want to turn, look toward the hilton rainbow tower. yes, so easy! Ikuko-san’s first wave and first turn. after she finished riding the wave, she didn’t have to tell me how happy she was, i could tell from her smile. pure surfers stoke!

Kei-san is an awesome surfer! i’m pretty sure he could be top 10 in the japan pro longboarding circut so easily. good style, good turns, and long rides. this is a very nice bottom turn.

and this is a very good off the lip. great surfing Kei-san!

Ikuko-san surfed the day before and didn’t catch a single wave. this day, she caught over 25 waves and rode them all perfectly. confidence is they key to catching waves!

the weather was so beautiful! riding into diamond head is always so fun!

and Kei-san has a great walking game too!

cool photo. longboard air.

as a photographer, these are the kind of photos i try to capture. why? because there’s nowhere else in the world like this. welcome to paradise!

a newlywed couple that will be sharing their whole life together, both in the water, and out of the water. happy wedding, happy future, and happy surfing! thank you again for the wonderful time in hawaii!