it’s so weird how a man’s mind works. men want toys. men need toys. and men get toys. when they find something they want, they will find any and every way to get it. it’s something women will never understand. haha.

ever since i was a kid, i always wanted a dirt bike. i went into the mountains on borrowed bikes that broke down on me. my friends always had the top of the line models. i couldn’t afford one. that was 25 years ago when i didn’t have money because i didn’t save money. now i save money so i can buy the things i want. my brother and nephews have been avid dirt bike riders for the past 20 years. i wasn’t interested because of all those memories i had in the mountains with the junk borrowed bikes. then as i was driving home the other day, i seen this guy on a blue motorcycle coming out of the valley with a dirt bike. an enduro to be exact. an enduro is a dirt bike that can also be ridden on the street. so i come home and research what i seen. this was it! a 2015 Yamaha WR250R. omg, i want one! i can ride around town, get bored, then take it into the mountains. i know some long hiking trails that lead to beautiful panoramic views that i would love to ride too. now the hunt is on! i gave out the word to friends that i’m looking for one. and as soon as i find a good used one, i’m buying it and heading to the mountains!

i was actually going to put some surf racks on too. then after a morning surf, i can go ride some trails somewhere. i’m getting pretty excited. don’t be surprised if you see me smoking up and down the mountains and streets someday soon. i’m a man. men want toys. and men get toys. haha.

a lot of intermediate level surfers ask me how to do a cutback. it’s pretty simple. you turn your arms, body, and head in the direction you want to go. and you will go. most intermediate level surfers tend to look down so they go down. understand? look at my eyes, i’m following the line i want to go too. got it?

been looking at the world surf forecast closely. things are changing by the day. i’m not too worried about it because i learned how to go with the flow. the ocean will predict my destination. and where i will be next week will be up to her. simple.

I love this photo!!!
Good morning 6am.
North shore 2-3′ now but GROWING!
Buoy 1 was 9′ at 19 seconds last night 11:50pm.
Solid 8′ North/West coming today.
South shore waist high and clean.
Lighter winds today so cleaner conditions everywhere.
Clouds, sun, showers, and rainbows.
Sunset Pro contest probably on Stand-by.
Have a wonderful day!

had an awesome morning with this wonderful couple from Hokkaido. third time to hawaii, and first time ever surfing. today was the day their life will change forever. and yes, i think it did!

first wave of Yoko-san’s life. got the shot!

and the first wave of Naoyuki-san’s life. got the shot!

it’s pretty easy to tell if people enjoy surfing or not. all you have to do is look at their face after their first wave and you will know they are hooked. Yoko-san and Naoyuki-san are hooked.

smiles from ear to ear. only a surfer knows the feeling.

can you imagine coming to hawaii from hokkaido? omg, from one of the coldest places on earth to one of the warmest places on earth. hawaii might be in winter season now but don’t tell that to people from hokkaido. this is paradise!

then we went to eat lunch at the health bar. the mana acai bowl is mandatory. thank you Naoyuki-san and Yoko-san for the wonderful day!

i ordered the pastrami sandwich today. it was so delicious!

then i came home, switched boards, and grabbed the 4 young ladies. we went out for a great surf session and i was happy to take this little 9 year old girl out with me. we had so much fun in the sun. the little girls surf club is getting bigger and better so today i made a name for them. i’ll introduce you to the “South Shore Monkey’s!” haha.